PDA

View Full Version : Air Capital Aurora Build



RV3maker
04-12-2015, 06:38 PM
I have posted a few threads on my build under bearing and seating, but going to finally post one under the Aurora Section! I started my Aurora for my wife so she can ride with me. She has never ridden a recumbent before so I have made it very "adjustable" so that she can grow into it and enjoy it like the rest of us AZ "recliner" riders. I have made a few departures from the plans so that the bike can be made to sit more upright at first, but then be reclined to a more recumbent position as she get used to it and start using the different muscles needed to ride. The mods that I have made are to the seat incorporating a wider, full mesh seat and to the seat/steering making them fully adjustable.

For the seat, I modeled it after a reclined lawn chair that my wife felt was comfortable (can't go wrong, right?). It was patterned after the recycled recumbent seat, but made wider and with one additional cross member. Here's a couple pictures of the seat frame and the self designed mesh cover that I made with salvage store mesh and webbing.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E96jZgyfxJI/VDm11LoGmdI/AAAAAAAACqE/LwOCuKExh1c/w737-h553-no/20141011_173709_resized.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Yg-HKlOkBHU/VSA2-vDgH4I/AAAAAAAACxk/CvRthxxE96o/w737-h553-no/20150324_205131.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9i8sz9-pRpo/VSA3DtrWaBI/AAAAAAAACyg/cxaIXxQiJvM/w737-h553-no/20150324_215319.jpg

The seat mounting was made to be fully adjustable so that I could later change it for my wife. I found some inexpensive 1.5" frame mounts and adapted them and welded on steerer tubes. This makes for a fully adjustable mount that can move in all directions. The only down side is that it raises the seat about 4-6" at the highest point. I have done a couple things to offset this including widening the rear wheel base to 29". It will make a slight difference in the pedal angle, but I am hoping not enough to make any difference with the adjustable seat. I stiffened it up with a rear mount made of some aluminum braces that were simply drilled and slotted on the band saw. Here is a pic or two of the mounting, but more pics already posted on this post.
http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php/9421-My-Attempt-at-a-Fully-Adjustable-Mesh-Seat-Mounting-on-my-Aurora

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UuqbcXwFtW8/VOLAYjJR8LI/AAAAAAAACsw/uIkevctTbUg/w737-h553-no/20150216_212001_resized.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-odHwJpekOcs/VOLAbbjflDI/AAAAAAAACtU/AbHlvI0Bg54/w737-h553-no/20150216_212418_resized.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qlKy8hFVHmB46ptAxXtvZ3hbnvUHVTsbKLISsJpeqPg=w737-h553-no

The steering is made so that it could be adjusted with the seat and no new parts or modifications would have to be made. I cut a piece of solid aluminum, drilled it, then countersunk the holes with a larger bit and then cut it in half to make a clamp. It work great, but remember to only tap one side of it to make it clamp right (ask me how I found this out . . ). Here is a pic or two. I also made a video today after I got it all rigged up. The steerer tabs are only tacked on and I have to final cut the aluminum rods, but it works pretty well. The rods are tapped to 5/16" using 5/16" bearings. The aluminum flexes just slightly, but not enough to make a huge difference. It is MUCH lighter than the 3/8" steel rods I used on my Warrior.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X3BViST5r3w/VOLAb-kaRmI/AAAAAAAACtY/InU76ueT820/w737-h553-no/20150216_213050_resized.jpg

Here is a video clip link that shows the steering (sorry for the music on the radio). NOTE - VIDEO PLAYS BETTER/BIGGER IF YOU PLAY FROM THE LINK BELOW TO GOOGLE ALBUM.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0uxQgklL1cALOhbaUhTmXZ30KqF2JhITGiRuJwQ5TT0=w360-h202-p-no

That is it so far. I will post more pics as I it gets closer to being finished. I have created an album like my Warrior and I will upload pics as I go (I have a lot more to add) and put captions on them when I am finished. This helped me a lot when Spinner did this, so I did it on my Air Capital Warrior and will do it on this . . . if it helps others it is worth it!!!

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/107830944100278065441/albums/6054177765796192577?authkey=CNDr8PfJya7QtgE


Rob :wings:
RV3maker
Warrior build https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/107830944100278065441/albums/5781572831651723489

stormbird
04-12-2015, 09:51 PM
Hi there

Nice build and some great ideas in there for making everything adjustable.

Looks like a bit of chain and you can take it for it's first ride ?

RV3maker
04-19-2015, 04:51 PM
Getting the drive line work done. I got everything aligned on the drive line and temporarily positioned the chain on the sprockets and pulleys then marked the rear left axle to drill the 1/4" hole for the adaptor. After I fit checked everything I trimmed the axle end.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GupcgGPu9gQ/VTQP8jKWorI/AAAAAAAAC6c/yc7o7nQckFw/w709-h532-no/20150419_144123.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PU_ZEu6WkeE/VTQP-fVY1EI/AAAAAAAAC6k/kZIbw23ta2w/w399-h532-no/20150419_151829.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g-NpNfua0_Q/VTQQAEEQPpI/AAAAAAAAC6s/0WyE_PeT7I0/w399-h532-no/20150419_151837.jpg

Now on to fitting the derailler mount and getting it positioned. Once that it done I can start welding the pulleys in place and fitting the return tube and mounts.

Feels close!

Rob
RV3maker :wings:
Warrior Trike - finished and flying! https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/107830944100278065441/albums/5781572831651723489
Aurora Trike - build photos here https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/107830944100278065441/albums/6054177765796192577?authkey=CNDr8PfJya7QtgE

RV3maker
04-20-2015, 12:38 AM
I also did some follow up work on the steering rods. I wanted some additional "security" on the rods for the adjustable block so I made these spacers and installed them on each end of the steerer tube. These along with the clamp block give me the peace of mind that the adjustment "system" is secure and will not loosen.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nogGDz2fICo/VTRGazXxWxI/AAAAAAAADBs/UtoF4wCn7eM/w709-h532-no/20150419_172157.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-apAlyT2Bx_g/VTRGTSbm8oI/AAAAAAAADAU/QaZmaNcYUIU/w709-h532-no/20150419_181756.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Uq8JXufOVDY/VTRGUmv0UcI/AAAAAAAADAg/4_d9BJTl3HM/w709-h532-no/20150419_181814.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3CvBDhGyTIs/VTRGWU_-uVI/AAAAAAAADA0/77eq5FIyjA4/w709-h532-no/20150419_183613.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uRbUMl2JYpQ/VTRGXp8nuWI/AAAAAAAADBE/0wfs45gBFM4/w399-h532-no/20150419_183633.jpg

Rob :wings:
RV3maker

MrIdaho
04-20-2015, 08:25 AM
They look nice but unnessary. The heim joints have a jam nut and loctite helps ease the worry
Just My opnion

RV3maker
04-20-2015, 12:34 PM
They look nice but unnessary. The heim joints have a jam nut and loctite helps ease the worry
Just My opnion

These are independent of the rod end bearing adjustment and separate issue. This is to ensure the two steerer rods do no move from the clamp block, i.e. if one of the screws would backout or come out and I lose steering. They may get safety wired as well . . . worked around too many aircraft and other things and I always plan on things falling apart or coming undone . . . if they can . . .eventually they will! :-) BTW, that said, I also make sure that I safety wire my USS threaded headset nuts on so they do not loosen or fall off. It is always my luck that these things happen miles and miles from home or from finding a way to fix/repair them.

Rob
RV3maker

RV3maker
05-12-2015, 10:35 PM
Some more progress this last weekend, won't be long until the first test ride!

Some new pics of fitting the axle adapters, rear derailleur bracket and brace and start of fitting the the BB7 rear disc brakes.

Rear derailleur mount.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cUUmw-K9nFQ/VVAr-Xc4F6I/AAAAAAAADDM/gmrDvnBMhNQ/w709-h532-no/20150510_120650.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9zvor5vFJZA/VVKyrXFEfQI/AAAAAAAADEY/yj97W1Unvpk/w709-h532-no/20150512_210912.jpg

Fitting the BB7's:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7hFhKWXsidY/VVKy1c1216I/AAAAAAAADE4/ZN9MpCF_PRQ/w709-h532-no/20150512_210807.jpg

Rob
RV3maker :wings:
Warrior build https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/107830944100278065441/albums/5781572831651723489
Aurora build https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/107830944100278065441/albums/6054177765796192577?authkey=CNDr8PfJya7QtgE

RV3maker
06-07-2015, 05:20 PM
Ready for the first test ride on the Aurora!

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aAUjZVvI2pQ/VXSzQ1ub-LI/AAAAAAAADJ0/4YHTB_3vr0c/w709-h532-no/20150607_160333.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--B9mI6aw7ow/VXSzXQqIjrI/AAAAAAAADJ8/YA-31fE2iEc/w709-h532-no/20150607_160322.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FRRZktgOoF4/VXSzZVeHJsI/AAAAAAAADKE/GwVgIpUMXCw/w709-h532-no/20150607_160313.jpg

Rob
RV3maker

LongRider
06-07-2015, 06:29 PM
Looking good but why the 18 inch derailleur tube???

RV3maker
06-08-2015, 12:48 AM
Looking good but why the 18 inch derailleur tube???

Just haven't cut it yet. Mentioned to my wife that I could put a stem mounted cell phone holder or a computer mount there and it would be close enough for her to get access to (vs the front steerer tube). I thought I would leave it until she gets to ride it and figures out what she might want there . . . .been married 20 years . . . . I have learned . . . ;-)

Rob
RV3maker

RV3maker
06-20-2015, 11:30 PM
Alright, I have run into an interesting snag (& sorry for the long post in advance). I am not familiar with shaft driven bikes (deltas) and certainly not with freewheel style cassettes. If this perceived problem is inherent to either of these then maybe I am making something out of nothing?

I noticed on my test ride that my disc rotor was "dinging" as I pedaled. I notice that I had used a thin washer that was slightly too wide and it was touching the rotor on the BB7 mounting (tight fit). I removed the washers and put it all back together and as I was readjusting the brakes I notice that the axle adaptor (AZ 3/4" aluminum) seemed to be wobbling? Never noticed it before? Chain tension issue? So after some serious head scratching I found that my hole in my axle seemed a tiny bit egged out on one end . . . so some thinking . . . decided to drill the hole thing out to 5/16" and ream it all at once to get a tight fit. I ended up finding a reamer that was .003" undersized (.3122) at my local surplus store for $2 . . .worked like a charm . . .tight fit!

Put everything back together . . .wobble? More head scratching. Then decided to use one of my axle shaft collars and a washer to put on the backside of the axle adapter to MAKE SURE it did not wobble . . . modified the collar, installed it . . .shazam . . . .WOBBLE??@@%??!@!!?

Next step, took it all off, got a spare stainless steel axle adapter that I had purchased from a fellow on AZ with the key (my axle is keyed shaft). I am using one of these on the right side as I was wanting to put electric drive on that adapter later. So I changed the sprocket onto that adapter, cut a key an locktighted it on . . . put it on . . .and . . . still WOBBLE in the sprocket (Sachs 12-21t, new)! So, thinking it may be my new sachs sprocket bearing being bad . .. changed to the original sunrace 13-32t sprocket (also new) and still, WOBBLE. Here's the video on this config and what's going on after I changed to the SS keyed axle adapter and back the new sunrace cassette:


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1YDfCwajun3zWQjlPoNfuThggsSyiFHNP998p81Op4s=w295-h221-p-no

If video doesn't play right, you can find it here last item in album:

https://plus.google.com/photos/107830944100278065441/albums/6054177765796192577?banner=pwa&authkey=CNDr8PfJya7QtgE


So, what to do next?? I know that the axle is not bent? I know that the key/keyed shaft on the SS adapter are NOT wobbling . . . is this just a characteristic of freewheel sprockets/bearings? Is it because I don't have the cassette screwed on tight enough? Not sure? I guess I will caliper/mic the shaft to make sure it is not a few thousandths undersize or inconsistent diameter . . . the only other thing I can think of?

Pulling my red hair out. . . . open for thoughts, advise, criticism . . . ?

Rob :wings:
RV3maker

MrIdaho
06-20-2015, 11:57 PM
The dinging may be the rotor hitting the caliper. Had similar issue. Try putting two thin washers under the mounting bosses of the caliper to move the caliper away from the rotor. If this works then suggest a permanent fix of remounting the caliper. I found putting two zip ties between the rotor and caliper, above the pads to get a nice fit and lots of pad in contact with the rotor.
I have a post about doing this with pics

Twinkle
06-21-2015, 05:23 AM
Hi Rob

I assume you have sorted out the disc rotor and the "pinging " has stopped , I have had a few freewheels that "wobble " when the wheel is spinning and the cogs don't run true (mostly cheaper brands of freewheel ) . The ones I have used like it haven't caused me any problems . I have started using DNP 11t up freewheels designed for electric bikes as they seem quite good BUT expensive but require their own remover as they are very deep .

Sometimes the "pinging " is caused when the pads are bedding in and is caused by burrs on the edges of the rotor . It has happened to me in the past .

regards emma

stormbird
06-21-2015, 05:10 PM
Hi there

That motion you see is caused by the way the cassette/free wheel is set up , there are 2 rings of very small balls in the free wheel [ see Brads tutorial on their disassembly ] the lock ring is then tightened up with a number of very thin shims to give the correct play.

As Brad points out these free wheels are not normally disassembled and I would not suggest you try and remove any shims , however I would check that the locking ring is done up tight and the wobble you can see is not because it is loose [ left-hand thread ]

On a new wheel I had that locking ring did come loose after about 2000 miles and the cassette rode off it's splines , luckily there was insufficient clearance for the balls to fall out , however I did have to remove the wheel very carefully to tighten it back up this was on a pavement at the side of the road !

RV3maker
06-21-2015, 06:29 PM
Hi Paul (stormbird),

Thanks for the input! I checked both the Sunrace 13-32t and the Sachs 12-21t (both new, sachs new old stock). The sunrace has the lockring you described, but the sachs does not. The Sachs actually looks like the first gear ring (12t) threads on and locks the rest in. They both seem very tight, but I might run them down to my LBS and ask them to double check them for me.

I am going to check the shaft with my dial gauge setup and check for out of round. I do have another axle (non keyed) that I may try to stick the adaptors on and run them on my bearings. If that checks out to be good then I have a bad keyed axle. Shame, as I got it from a well known go cart supplier . . .but, who knows.

I will post my findings . . . .Can't give up even if I have to change axles and start over again on this wheel hub . . . . :-(

Rob
RV3maker

stormbird
06-22-2015, 02:10 AM
Hi Rob

I assume you have sorted out the disc rotor and the "pinging " has stopped , I have had a few freewheels that "wobble " when the wheel is spinning and the cogs don't run true (mostly cheaper brands of freewheel ) . The ones I have used like it haven't caused me any problems .
regards emma

Rob

This says it all really , some do some don't some will when they have been used a bit.

If the cassettes are not loose ride them !

If you see the angle a chain on a 20" wheeled bike works at from 48t front to 28t rear without jumping off you would not worry about a little run out on your set up.

RV3maker
06-24-2015, 02:20 PM
Thanks for the inputs on the sprocket "wobble". I have found a product that we use here at Learjet that will take away most all of my concerns for clearance or wobble between the adapter and the shaft, Loctite 680. I will put it on when reassembling the shaft and adapters and leave it for 24 hours before putting chain tension/load on the sprocket . . .should alleviate the concern . . at least in my mind anyway . . . .onward!

Rob
RV3maker

vk3ckc
06-24-2015, 06:49 PM
The wobble is only evident during freewheeling and I have seen that on many (most?) freewheels I have looked at but only when sitting on a stand. You won't notice it while riding unless you are going downhill and have the time and lack of obstacles to study the cassette in motion - a risky proposition. Take consolation in the fact that it is like so many others out there and can be considered normal. Precision engineering costs money and most of us don't have a lot of precision engineering.

Kevin - VK3CKC

LO2W
07-02-2015, 01:21 PM
Nice build. I'm on the fence between this and the wild kat for an everyday bike, a car replacement. This has me really tempted.

Ticktock
07-03-2015, 08:27 AM
Hi,
I'm a bit late coming in on this one, but after looking at the video, I don't think you have a problem-( at least not there!)
True. it does wobble, but nowhere near enough to have any effect on running. All it does is to make it a bit more critical on the adjustment of the shifters.
Best advice I have here is to check carefully for any tight links, and recheck shifter adjustment. Try raising the wheel, and then slowly (REALLY SLOW) moving the cranks backwards,
watching the chain run through the rear derailer. Any tight links or bent chain can usually be seen this way.
Steve G

RV3maker
07-04-2015, 01:33 AM
Well, test rides with the new Sachs sprocket have been....well......awesome! After tweaking the brakes a bit,...no more dinging or rubbing. I am still going to use the loctite 680 retaining compond when I do the final assembly.....but not concerned about it any longer.

The road gearing on the Sachs 12t-21t sprocket works great with the 20" wheels. I have to admit.....this is hands down the most comfortable riding bike I have ever ridden.....and I made it for my wife.....what was I thinking? I will posts some pics and a video of a ride in the near future.

What a great bike design...fun! I may have to get the electric motor put on it soon.....I mean.....for my wife....of course. ;-)

Rob
Rv3maker

darnthedog
07-04-2015, 06:58 AM
You know the old saying-you can never build just one:laugh3: