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View Full Version : I shouldn't be building this now but.... And I need help



go1000go
09-27-2013, 04:43 PM
Ok I know I have another build on at the moment, but there are too many road bikes around right now that pass me so I want a fast machine to take them on.
Unfortunately my front runner got the better of me, but I kind of like the building, so no great loss as this project now has all the bits I need for a highroller.
Only one week in and this is where I am up to.
http://s8.postimg.org/l9i7ndxp1/image.jpg

I have a question though, I really wanted to quietly build and paint this and post finished images, but I have a question.
You will be able to see that the seat is both moveable and removable, so I can put the finished machine in my car for transporting.

With having no rear stay to the seat is fine, the seat is very well supported, my slight concern is do I need to add some more support to the rear forks for strength?

Here is one idea I have
http://s23.postimg.org/kf3ioay2j/image.jpg

The orange and red is actually the same piece basically a short set of forks to provide a hoop over the wheel. This is joined to the main frame with the blue piece.

I want to provide a mounting point for the rear mudguard so I am going to use the orange red blue addition for this also.

Thoughts please

Tradetek
09-27-2013, 06:23 PM
Hmmm... that is actually and interesting question Tim. I think I'd be concerned that you are adding a fixed point on the top of the main boom at the same place that your chain stays are connected to it and whether that might have a lever effect on the tube. Kind of like standing on a pole or branch and pulling it up towards you to fold or break it.

I don't know that is what would happen, but it would be my concern. Maybe it would be better to run two small tube to either side of the main boom say a couple of inches in front of the chain stay connections and then run them straight back and connect them to other with a cross brace?

Bill

HHJJ
09-27-2013, 06:27 PM
Hmmm, There's nowhere to make triangles at the backend with the adjustable seat facility is there?
I'm sure the engineers will chip in shortly.
I'd be inclined to agree that more support is probably necessary and wonder if a bigger version of what you plan over the wheel might do the trick.

DannyC
09-27-2013, 06:32 PM
Hi Tim,

Isn't the "turning moment" of the additional parts (as drawn) at the same place as the existing fork connection to the main boom?
If it is, then I'm not sure how much additional resistance to movement it would provide (some, but perhaps not a great deal) as it seems to me that all of the stress is focused in the same small area (unless you put a plate on the top surface of the main boom for it to attach to and transfer the load further down the boom). Bracing components usually provide some triangulation away to another area entirely to derive their strength don't they? I'm not sure that the arrangement (as drawn) will do that.

Its looking nice though, I wish yo every success with it.

Regards,

Dan.

Tradetek
09-27-2013, 06:33 PM
Based on the bottom pic, it looks like he is using a small piece of tubing as a filler for the seat bracket. Maybe it could be shorter or moved forward under the bracket some?

And I wasn't suggesting to move it by much, just out of the HAZ of the other welds.

savarin
09-27-2013, 09:30 PM
personally I would add a stay each side at the bottom of the fork leg up to the middle of the seat back or higher ensuring the bolt to the actual seat bracket. Make that longer if you have to.
Make the length of each stay adjustable (it wont require much) so you can still adjust the seat.
Use spherical rod ends for the stays so they will tip down when removing the seat, use quick release bolts for the top of the seat.
This will give a better triangulated section for strength.
The amount of force placed on the seat back is enormous if your going to be powering hard.

go1000go
09-28-2013, 01:37 AM
Wow thanks for all the responses.

How about having a permanent rack over the rear wheel, capable of holding panniers if required.

The seat is likely to need to go forward at least 1" therefore there could be an upright added here.

Thanks again, help still required, Tim

Ticktock
09-28-2013, 04:48 AM
Hi Tim,
Dan is right, this will not really provide mush extra support, because all the bending moments still act at the same point. In most cases, Brads plans will be OK. I don't have High roller in my collection, but gut feeling says that properly welded with a good set of forks you should have no problems. It was very hard work adjusting a set of kids forks I used on the tandem, and I was uncertain about using them until I tried to bend them --took two on the forks and one to hold the bench! And that was cheap forks.
Best test is the jump test--jump on it--if bends its no good--it it does not bend its OK.
Steve G

HHJJ
09-28-2013, 05:55 AM
Wow thanks for all the responses.

How about having a permanent rack over the rear wheel, capable of holding panniers if required.

The seat is likely to need to go forward at least 1" therefore there could be an upright added here.

Thanks again, help still required, Tim

I nearly suggested that.
I looked at all the pics of others bikes on the right hand side of the plans details page.
The spirit doesn't have triangle, but the stays are made of chunky metal.

go1000go
09-28-2013, 03:35 PM
Thanks for most recent contributions.
I have been out cycling 40 miles today and it helped to clarify things.
I think I have made a mistake between the plans for the highroller and reality. The seat I want it removable but do not want to compromise structural integrity, and there is my problem, the seat design in the plans creates the structure, however......

Steve G I took your advice as best I could

http://s15.postimg.org/imp6sg3kr/image.jpg

Could not get to upload the video I had my son take, but I bounced up and down, not jumped and all seemed good.

Also been looking at
http://bacchettabikes.com/bikes/frame-kits.php

Their design looks like what I have, the seat support being independent of the frame, so is what i have ok then ?

The alternative
Separate the seat support from the frame design.
Create a rear triangle by adding an extra piece 1" in front of where the forks contact the boom (green line), then add stays to connect to this (blue line) then a support for the seat, possibly adjustable (orange line)
http://s11.postimg.org/ft13vrns3/image.jpg

Then the frame structural integrity is separate to the seat support.

DannyC
09-28-2013, 04:22 PM
Now that looks good!
The triangle provides the rigidity for the forks and also supports and adds to the seat's ability to take "push" loads.


Sounds/looks like a great plan.

Enjoy the build!

Regards,


Dan.

MrIdaho
09-28-2013, 04:26 PM
Maybe I am missing something but the rear forks are similat in structure (same style) as say a Warrior rear forks but again I may be missiong something but the Warrior rear has only the two fork tines, no additional bracing but I am considering adding some as my Tri-Cruizer has same (warrior) rear end. Been contemplating this addition since I welded the frame together.

savarin
09-28-2013, 08:57 PM
Dont forget this is steel so if it is going to break it wont be sudden, a small crack will slowly grow until it fails.
It usually wont be the weld but the heat affected zone at the edge of the weld where the fatigue crack starts.
If you make that purple and orange stay one piece and if that section of metal at the bottom of the seat is long enough to reach the top of the seat where the orange bit is drawn in the resulting triangle will be strong enough.
Dont weld the stays to the forks but weld tabs to bolt the stays onto, then the seat is still movable or removable.
I made the warrior back end for my long wheelbase low rider and it cracked off. Admittedly I did go down a deep pothole.
The full illustrated story is here http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php/3363-What-now!/page2

go1000go
09-29-2013, 01:46 PM
Hi All

Just wanted you to be able to see what I see.
The seat is supported in my humble opinion in just the same fashion as per the "SPIRIT" swb AZ plan, connected to a removal section rather than the main boom.
http://s15.postimg.org/65y5gdy57/image.jpg

My concern is the flex between the main boom and rear forks.


Saravin, thanks for the link, read though that and from your experience welcome you input.

So my plan is to do something like this.
http://s24.postimg.org/6lfo65jhh/image.jpg

Then create a bracket, similar to this
http://s24.postimg.org/4e28qqzfp/image.jpg

Finally adjust the clearance under the rear seat clamp to the main boom to allow it to rotate but still clamp to the main boom.

I might even add a rack as I mentioned in an earlier post to hang panniers off.

So it appears I am on the right track now, just a niggle of a question, is it too much, too heavily engineered ?

darnthedog
09-29-2013, 02:26 PM
I have been following this thread- and the title is sort of misleading. So after read through this tread twice I have decide to pipe in.
What? LOL- you design looks fine. If the rear forks are NOT flexing then adding triangular support may cause more harm than good.
If it is flexing then you plan is NOT going to provide the support your looking for.
To create your triangular support if you need it. Add a tab to middle of you seat. Add a tab just above each of the axles. The add a pair of 1/4" to 1/2" square tube or round rod with flat tabs that can be attached via #8 or 10 nut and bolt through the 3 tabs from seat back tab to the 2 rear fork tabs. If you want to be a bit more creative you can make the the rod expandable with a tub in a tube and locking pins with varying holes in the length to make it adjustable as the seat.
I would not weld any other rods on it. They won't make a difference.
That is just my option of course. But as I said at first if there is no flex there is no need for anything just enjoy the ride for a week or two and inspect on each ride with a bright light to see if cracks a forming. If none after a couple weeks then paint and forget all the additions. Enjoy the ride.

Twinkle
09-29-2013, 03:32 PM
darnthedog's advice seems the most logical way to go :- if its not broke ,dont fix yet after a couple of weeks you will tell if you have a problem from the ride

good work , keep it up

regards

go1000go
09-29-2013, 04:22 PM
I have been following this thread- and the title is sort of misleading. So after read through this tread twice I have decide to pipe in.

Hi darnthedog

Apologies for any confusion on the title, I am a good way through building another bike "another chopper" and there are bits of bike everywhere, hence the title coz it is probably better to finish one before building another.

Added these comments on second build on hold ... Forgot also got my trike is also on hold - another modified build, needed to be done to create space for another chopper, which is on hold for this build' hence I shouldn't be be building this now as two other builds part way through.

Thanks for your words of encouragement, in principle the mould seat on needs to be held in place, strong enough on its own to support the weight of a rider.

The reference in the the to needing help is from the point of not creating a rear triangle, but having seen other swb bikes a few are similar to what I have now, I am unsure whether what I have already is sufficient, hence the question.

I need to make gooseneck and sort out what handlebars I need at some time, so I think I will get them sorted next, get a brake rigged up, add chain and rollers etc and go for a test ride....

Thanks for all the support, please feel free to chip in

FrankCrank
09-30-2013, 04:13 AM
Hi Tim, nice build going on there. I'm with DTD on the rear end - looks like it may hold up as it is without any additional strenghthening. I say 'may' because only way to really know is carry on with the build, leave in the raw (unpainted) and test for a few weeks. As you say, some other production models are the same design, so well proven. I personally would triangulate for something like that, but would have a fixed seat position, so not quite the same as you. So - go for it I say, looks like odds on it could work.......

Tradetek
09-30-2013, 08:53 AM
To keep the seat adjustable you can use a longer piece of angle (possibly aluminum) vertically on each side of the seat with holes drilled in it as say 2 or 3 cm and put a hole in the end of a tube connecting the seat to the end of the chain stays. This would give you the added support for your peace of mind (although you should still check for cracks periodically) while still having an adjustable seat.

Bill

go1000go
09-30-2013, 01:48 PM
Hi All,

Just broke through another tech barrier and hopefully with the help from my son you should be able to see this video

http://youtu.be/l0p_UXz4xpE

Thanks for all the feedback.

Tim

FrankCrank
09-30-2013, 03:40 PM
....looks way strong enough - great demonstration of vertical loading. I'd certainly put money on it now that it'll hold up out on the rough stuff.....

go1000go
11-17-2013, 03:11 PM
Progress to date, one step forward, one back, one forward, half back, so I have made a bit of progress.
http://s13.postimg.org/ax8evfssn/image.jpg

Seat stay is slightly out, so just needs tweaking, but overall I lot lighter and now stronger.

DannyC
11-17-2013, 04:50 PM
Hi Tim,

Is that your 65 seat from OC?

What is the padding you have added to it?

I just opened my parcel to find that one of the rear ribs of the seat is cracked :-(.

Regards,

Dan.

sandman
11-17-2013, 04:58 PM
Great build Tim:) the rear end looks really sweet,The only thing I might add would be a small diagonal brace fore and aft of the head tube of 1/2" box to eliminate any flex of the spine if I was a high powered peddler which I am not HAHA,oh and I REALLY REALLY hate the fact your workshop is SOOOO tidy:joker:
regards
John

go1000go
11-17-2013, 05:45 PM
Hi Danny

Is that your 65 seat from OC?

What is the padding you have added to it?


Yep oc seat, with oc ventist pad bought at same time.

Workshop not always tidy !!

FrankCrank
11-17-2013, 08:11 PM
...coming along nice Tim, looks like you've beefed up the rear fork join, compared to the earlier photo, looks way strong now..........

trikeman
11-17-2013, 08:28 PM
I'd say it looked pretty strong after that jump test video. Why did you start over again and completely replace the old round rear forks with square tube? I think its easier to build a rear with the square tube, and was glad when Brad came up with that design, but once you had the round all welded up and passing the jump test, you obviously didn't trust it still. Its looking very good.

SirJoey
11-17-2013, 08:57 PM
Looks pretty darn sturdy to me! :)



**** The Truth Is Out There! ****
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif
(Geezer & Bent Enthusiast At Large)

go1000go
11-18-2013, 02:52 AM
I'd say it looked pretty strong after that jump test video. Why did you start over again and completely replace the old round rear forks with square tube? I think its easier to build a rear with the square tube, and was glad when Brad came up with that design, but once you had the round all welded up and passing the jump test, you obviously didn't trust it still. Its looking very good.

Trikeman, exactly my thoughts after the round tube version was complete, but I must have adjusted the wheel position at least three times and I never intended to have the rear seat stays as the highroller design calls for to brace the back end, so hence the modification, very happy that I have done this now.

Frank and Sir Joey, yep strong it most certainly is, there is also a lot you cannot see beneath the stays that contribute to even more strength, overkill maybe..... But I am ok with that, at least it will not break.

DannyC
11-18-2013, 08:53 AM
Hi Tim,

Another Question if I may?

I noticed that the OC seat has no specific mounting points pre-applied.
What did you do to mount it, i'm not sure I can tell from your pictures in this thread where the load-points are arranged (on the ribs or on the pan of the seat)?

Is there a better thread where this is shown?

Regards,

Dan.

go1000go
11-18-2013, 11:40 AM
Hi Danny

I was equally unsure on seat mounts, look at this though
http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?t=94844&page=3

Ultimately I did something similar to this

trikeman
11-18-2013, 12:02 PM
If you get a chance, I would like to see a better shot and/or description of how you beefed up that rear joint with the gusset(s). Your mod there looks very good. The guy in the referenced BROL post seemed to have some trouble with his in Mexico (on his 8,000 mile journey), requiring him to weld on some more reinforcement. His looks like overkill, but I guess when you are 3000 miles from home you don't want to take chances.

go1000go
11-18-2013, 02:20 PM
If you get a chance, I would like to see a better shot and/or description of how you beefed up that rear joint with the gusset(s). Your mod there looks very good. The guy in the referenced BROL post seemed to have some trouble with his in Mexico (on his 8,000 mile journey), requiring him to weld on some more reinforcement. His looks like overkill, but I guess when you are 3000 miles from home you don't want to take chances.

Trikeman, here goes

The rear fork is 30mm x 15mm x 2mm wall, so stronger to start with. The stays were joined as per warrior plans to 1.5"x1.5"x1.5mm square box section that the boom is made from.

It was at this point I read the BROL post and realised I may be storing up a problem and I had not drilled holes to allow the cables to pass through the frame, so I came up with the following modification.

I cut a channel on the underside of the stays to allow a 20mm x 10mm x 1.5mm wall to fit all the way back to the main boom. The stays had 6mm holes drilled into them to allow the inner tube to be rosette welded to the fork stay.
http://s24.postimg.org/xtf7ykslx/image.jpg
From the photo you are looking at the inner tube and a section of the tube I used for the rear fork stays.

Now to tidy up the underside with all that chopping and welding I added a plate 1.5mm thick to the area, again 6mm holes rosette welded and welded on the edges too.

Now the original plan was to weld a web plate from the inner tube 20mmx10mm to the main boom, did this, thought a bit of body filler to hide grubby welds, then realised that a simple clover could be made from 1.5"x1.5" section, so did this to cover it all up and fully welded

http://s12.postimg.org/6118lv0zh/image.jpg
The finished result looks clean (I think so).

Underneath it is 1.5mm + 2mm + 1.5mm = 5mm thick.

The inner tube allows a cable to pass through, more on that on later posts and strength should not be a concern now and rather than one thick plate the sections are welded together in triangular configuration so should be good.

go1000go
11-18-2013, 02:24 PM
The only thing I might add would be a small diagonal brace fore and aft of the head tube of 1/2" box to eliminate any flex of the spine if I was a high powered peddler

Sandman John, interested in what you advise, have noticed a bit of flex whilst air peddling, but the original design does not call for this and other bikes of same design do not have it, however you may have read I am not one to skimp on beefing up sections, so open to the idea, also I think the top of the steerer tube standing up looks a little odd, so probably go for it in 20mm by 10mm tube

trikeman
11-18-2013, 03:36 PM
Thanks, Tim. I think I understand what you did now. If I ever get around to building either a Spirit or HighRoller, I may do something similar.

Racer46
11-19-2013, 12:26 PM
<Snip> The guy in the referenced BROL post seemed to have some trouble with his in Mexico (on his 8,000 mile journey), requiring him to weld on some more reinforcement. His looks like overkill, but I guess when you are 3000 miles from home you don't want to take chances.

I started reading that guy's posts and he kept trying to make the bike lighter. Then he goes and does a loaded cross continent trip. He should have built some extra strength into that bike to start with.

sandman
11-19-2013, 05:18 PM
Hi Tim, that wasnt advice, just my observation on the structure as I see it, blame it on to many years designing and building things for clients, like pythagorus I do like my triangles:)
regards
John

go1000go
11-19-2013, 05:52 PM
Hi Tim, that wasnt advice, just my observation on the structure as I see it, blame it on to many years designing and building things for clients, like pythagorus I do like my triangles
regards
John

Ok understood, however if to add the brace what length would you estimate say 100mm long?

sandman
11-20-2013, 04:29 PM
Hi Tim,
Just had another look at your pics and think about 150/175 mm would be a good starting point (always hard to tell from pics even with known parts as reference) its worth just tacking the bits in and try air peddling to see if you notice any difference before committing to welding
regards
John

go1000go
11-20-2013, 05:02 PM
think about 150/175 mm would be a good starting point (always hard to tell from pics even with known parts as reference) its worth just tacking the bits in and try air peddling to see if you notice any difference before committing to welding

Sounds like a plan, thanks John

bgraham111
11-22-2013, 07:29 PM
Trikeman, exactly my thoughts after the round tube version was complete, but I must have adjusted the wheel position at least three times and I never intended to have the rear seat stays as the highroller design calls for to brace the back end, so hence the modification, very happy that I have done this now.

This is kind of where I am. I am SOOOO close with the front-fork-as-a-rear-fork alignment. But I keep checking and readjusting it. I actually think I'm close... but I can't leave well enough alone.

TexasTuff
11-22-2013, 10:59 PM
Sandman John, interested in what you advise, have noticed a bit of flex whilst air peddling, but the original design does not call for this and other bikes of same design do not have it, however you may have read I am not one to skimp on beefing up sections, so open to the idea, also I think the top of the steerer tube standing up looks a little odd, so probably go for it in 20mm by 10mm tube

Tim, I have a lot of flex in the boom of my Spirit as does the boom on my grandsons Spirit. I can lock the brakes and press on the pedal and see 3/4" or more side and down flex in the boom. That is hill climbing energy that is lost in the frame and not returned. It would be easier to run a brace under the boom if there were more of the headtube exposed but that is not the case on your or on mine. Canadian builder Spinner put a lower brace on his Warrior boom that helped on his. I'm not offering a solution for yours, just letting you know it is there.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gPuLPplUGOw/T17tzgXvlFI/AAAAAAAABM4/sJSgrbs817E/s400/DSQ_4500.JPGhttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zGNCsnE3CaM/T17t0bU29KI/AAAAAAAABNA/82-k89MxyQU/s400/DSQ_4502.JPG

go1000go
01-04-2014, 01:51 PM
Just a quick update, been a while, but finally got a test ride tonight with everything working.
It is good

Couple of tiny bits to fill then should be ready for paint.

http://s29.postimg.org/c3n218f47/image.jpg

darnthedog
01-04-2014, 02:03 PM
Very cool looking ride Tim. Is it every thing that you hoped for?

DannyC
01-04-2014, 02:22 PM
Looks the business Tim!!

I bet it will be a lot of fun in the Summer.

Regards,

Dan.

go1000go
01-21-2014, 04:39 PM
Paint is on:)

DannyC
01-21-2014, 06:18 PM
We definitely need a picture Tim. ;-)

go1000go
01-26-2014, 04:25 PM
We definitely need a picture Tim. ;-)

Patience, patience Danny C.

I am so thrilled with how this build is working out, spent today on assembly, all shiny pieces laid out and fitting them one by one, it was like an episode of American Chopper without the histrionics.
I have put full mudguards on for now given UK weather being a bit wet, but these can come off when weather improves.

Forgot to mention the colour, you will have to wait for the photos, unless you can guess, there is an AZ crew member who is already aware of the colour, hopefully my secret is safe for now.

Twinkle
01-26-2014, 04:48 PM
Forgot to mention the colour, you will have to wait for the photos, unless you can guess, there is an AZ crew member who is already aware of the colour, hopefully my secret is safe for now.


MUMS the word

DannyC
01-27-2014, 05:02 AM
MUMS the word

Oh no! Not Barbie-Pink with glitter, surely not. LOL ;-)

Twinkle
01-27-2014, 06:29 AM
Next trike I was thinking Lady Penelope Pink with Lime green trim

Cute ehh ( only joking I cannot find a supplier for lime green vinyl for the seat )

te he

regards emma

Tradetek
01-27-2014, 12:07 PM
As and ye shall receive. Lime Green Vinyl Fabric (http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=lime%20green%20vinyl&linkCode=ur2&sprefix=lime%20green%20vin%2Caps%2C274&tag=inm06-20&url=search-alias%3Darts-crafts)

;) Bill

socialtalker
01-28-2014, 01:58 AM
SPARKLE FAUX LEATHER VINYL FABRIC - 10 Colors - 58" WIDTH SOLD BTY

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPARKLE-FAUX-LEATHER-VINYL-FABRIC-10-Colors-58-WIDTH-SOLD-BTY-/321181695075?pt=US_Fabric&var=510145052068&hash=item4ac7ebbc63

you're welcome! lol!


Next trike I was thinking Lady Penelope Pink with Lime green trim

Cute ehh ( only joking I cannot find a supplier for lime green vinyl for the seat )

te he

regards emma

go1000go
01-28-2014, 12:50 PM
Decals arrived

Not Barbie pink paint though

go1000go
01-28-2014, 01:15 PM
Bargain 2.39 from ebay, ordered Sunday night arrived today

http://s22.postimg.org/42b8ed4l9/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/42b8ed4l9/)

Twinkle
01-28-2014, 01:26 PM
The wonders of the British Postal System

Can't wait to see the finished results , all I have done today is turned 3 piece of square section into U sections for project " move 2 trikes in and on the car "

regards emma

go1000go
01-30-2014, 02:12 PM
All done, thanks to everyone who has given advice through the build.

http://s3.postimg.org/c5jw4cf83/image.jpg

http://s30.postimg.org/sbew4hycx/image.jpg

http://s21.postimg.org/ex38toz7r/image.jpg

http://s15.postimg.org/7sg8vebqj/image.jpg

trikeman
01-30-2014, 02:15 PM
That looks great.

stormbird
01-30-2014, 02:20 PM
Hi there

that's looks very nice , no hint of it being home made

DannyC
01-30-2014, 02:34 PM
Oh My!

Tim you should be very proud of your creation, that looks fantastic.
I am sure it will turn heads wherever you ride it.

Congratulations on a job that was extremely well done Sir!

Regards,

Dan.

ps, what is the official name for the colour?

Twinkle
01-30-2014, 03:07 PM
Oh My!

Tim you should be very proud of your creation, that looks fantastic.

what is the official name for the colour?

Orange ?

Nice one , Tim , the decals make it look like a Professional , well done

regards emma

go1000go
01-30-2014, 03:36 PM
Originally Posted by DannyC
Oh My!

Tim you should be very proud of your creation, that looks fantastic.

what is the official name for the colour?



Orange ?

Nice one , Tim , the decals make it look like a Professional , well done

regards emma

BRIGHT ORANGE

Not just any Bright Orange but M99 Bright Orange..lol


Thanks for all the comments, very much appreciated

darnthedog
01-30-2014, 04:02 PM
Tim
That is one eye popping good looking build.
Love the color and the chrome rear splash guard.
Decals really set it off. Your going to have a hard time riding it because everyone will want to stop you and ask where did you buy that.
Happy riding.

DannyC
01-30-2014, 06:20 PM
My point as to the colour was "which orange is that" there are so many.....

http://nettehargreaves.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/pantone-orange-1.jpg

Dan.

bgraham111
01-30-2014, 06:27 PM
Very cool! I've been "paused" on my build during the winter. Way too cold to weld in the garage this year, so I've been busy cutting stuff and buying too much. Seeing yours makes me want to get back to building even more.

Very nice!

Twinkle
01-30-2014, 06:37 PM
My point as to the colour was "which orange is that" there are so many.....

http://nettehargreaves.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/pantone-orange-1.jpg

Dan.

I know what you mean Danny, I got a couple of orange rattle cans from the autoshop . It was nothing like the colour on the lid, it turned out the colour of a dead hamster . I was not impressed :taz:

regards emma

go1000go
01-30-2014, 06:38 PM
My point as to the colour was "which orange is that" there are so many.....

http://nettehargreaves.com/wp-conten...e-orange-1.jpg

Dan.

Hi Dan

I will try and get you a Pantone number tomorrow if I can. Sorry was not aware you wanted specifics.

Kind regards
Tim

DannyC
01-31-2014, 07:06 AM
Hi Tim,

The better number (if you can get it off the tin is the RAL number). I just used the pantone chart (as used by graphic designers on their MAC's) to illustrate that there a many shades of Orange. There is a conversion between the two numbering schemes anyway.

That does look a particularly nice Orange :-)

Regards,

Dan.

go1000go
01-31-2014, 09:17 AM
Hi Dan

It was and I quote "just knocked together" no specific colour.
I asked for a bright orange, I got a bright orange and it is a cellulose.
Closest Pantone is the Goldfish 166

Sorry cannot be more help, I did say in another post on decals I am not arty, same applies to my colour choosing.

What colour sir, bright orange please, there you go sir.


Did you spot the rpm counter?

DannyC
01-31-2014, 09:39 AM
Hi Tim,

I am similarly gifted in all things artistic (colour, art, music etc.) and I feel your pain ;-)

Is the RPM counter associated with the sensor attached to the spoke on the front wheel, and is it truly for pedal cadence?

I have a cheap wireless 12 function bike computer on my trike but it doesn't give me any RPM (wheel or pedalling), just MPH/KMH and min/max.avg etc. but it must use wheel RPM to calculate these things.

Thanks for the info.

Regards,

Dan.

Neil B
01-31-2014, 09:45 AM
Very nice :sunny:I have plans to build one as well. Using the Spirit type rear fork.
So how many roadies have you sped past?
The valley where I live is a hot spot for roadies, I have a plan, when I've built my high roller, to lie in wait, just so I can burn past them :jester:

Colours. Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet. Can't be doing with all this sea geen, burnt orange, autumn mist, linen etc. LINEN is a fabric not a coulour.
Ok i'll give you light green, dark brown, but that other stuff is just wrong.

Neil

Tradetek
01-31-2014, 09:57 AM
A cadence counter requires a sensor on one of the crank arms and an adjacent tube (normally the seat tube on a DF).

Bill

go1000go
01-31-2014, 10:33 AM
Hi Dan, Neil, Tradetek

I did not make it easy but here it is
http://s29.postimg.org/fxybz2cdz/image.jpg

Got the idea from
http://www.instructables.com/id/Very-Easy-Cadence-Meter-For-Your-Bike-12/step8/Computer-Set-Up/

Works a treat, although not accurate to more than 5 rpm but that is ok for me.
Heard a lot about spinning but could be sure I could accurately count my own leg flying activity.
Shock of shocks, typically I was at 60 rpm at best.

My plan for the roadies Neil is to get spinning faster, already comfortable at 75 rpm, did 30 mins last night at 80 rpm, all on a turbo trainer, then get out when 70 mph gusts relent and the rain reduces, so August then .....lol

DannyC
01-31-2014, 12:40 PM
Hi Tim,

My next bike is going to be another trike and (as you know) I also have an OC seat.
Can I ask what you have covered your seat with (is it Ventisit, and if so where did you get it in the UK)?

Thanks again, sorry to be a nosey-parker.

Regards,

Dan.

go1000go
01-31-2014, 12:55 PM
Hi Tim,

My next bike is going to be another trike and (as you know) I also have an OC seat.
Can I ask what you have covered your with (is it Ventisit, and if so where did you get it in the UK)?

Thanks again, sorry to be a nosey-parker.


Return to sender

Thinking logically where would be the best place to get a ventist seat pad to fit an OC seat ?


http://s30.postimg.org/uy86qo1fh/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/uy86qo1fh/)


OC, ventist pad, same price as the shell, bought when I felt flush and still no regrets

DannyC
01-31-2014, 01:36 PM
LOL, of course. I will be (rightly) accused of a senior-moment/brain-fart.

My naivety arose because I could not see an offer for a ventisit pad on their web-site, and so I thought it must have come from somewhere else.

How silly of me. :rolleyes4:

Thanks Tim.

Regards,

Dan.

go1000go
01-31-2014, 01:51 PM
Dan do not let this bother you, your logical question was when what you cannot see what you want.

I thought after I had posted before you could (or others) might have seen my answer as being disrespectful, however I was appealing to your engineers logic.

Apologies if anyone thought I was out of order.

Tradetek
01-31-2014, 02:38 PM
So did the Instructables specify 5 magnets (assuming that is what the 5 blocks are on the inner chainring)? If so did it give a reason why?

Normally a cadence counter would only have 1 magnet because 1 "cadence" is 1 complete crank rotation.

Just curious.

Bill

DannyC
01-31-2014, 02:54 PM
Oh Tim, never, ever, have I been "thin-skinned" (or, some would say...quick-witted).
No offence was taken whatsoever and it is good to know that OC are able to supply a Ventisit to match their excellent seat.

Thanks again.

Regards,

Dan.

go1000go
01-31-2014, 03:02 PM
So did the Instructables specify 5 magnets (assuming that is what the 5 blocks are on the inner chainring)? If so did it give a reason why?

Normally a cadence counter would only have 1 magnet because 1 "cadence" is 1 complete crank rotation.

Just curious.

Bill

Yep 5 magnets

You trick a basic cycle computer (in my case a Halfords basic costing 5.19) that does not have a cadence function by converting the km/h into the rpm display, the 5 magnets then fool the settings


Say you want it to read 60KM at 60 RPM's
60km is 1km per minute or 1000 meters.
1000 meters is 1000/60 or 16.666 meters per sec.
Since there are 5 magnets for each rotation 16.666/5
is 3.333 meters per 1/5 second or 3333 MM.

Quote from the instructables link.

Worked for me, the other issue with a normal cadence sensor is that they often are joined to a speed sensor via a short wire. This for me would not work for three reasons:
1. I only wanted a cadence sensor, the cadence only sensors typically link to a smart phone, I didn't want to mount my phone on my bike to show the display
2. I didn't want to have speed display so the second speeds sensor would be redundant, I learnt a will back having my speed displayed when I cycle makes the little voices in my head to say "go faster, go faster" even if it is not safe to do so.
3. Cost, what I did was cheaper and more in zombie keeping and gave me the solution I wanted.

Would recommend it to anyone

Tradetek
02-01-2014, 12:00 AM
Interesting work around. So then does the speed display your cadence as speed then? Or do you have to do some mental math?

And yes... I know I'm being lazy by not reading the instructable myself... but I am part cat...

Bill

go1000go
02-01-2014, 04:29 AM
Dunna dunna dunna dunna
Dunna dunna dunna dunna

CATMAN








I put it to you, that I believe you are doing your breed a disservice!

:rolleyes4:


http://s21.postimg.org/lntyw15nn/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/lntyw15nn/)

http://s17.postimg.org/d629b3223/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/d629b3223/)

No mental maths required, the km/h setting displays the rpm.

Twinkle
02-01-2014, 05:43 AM
Got to agree with Tim on that one , logic and maths works out PURR FECTLY

only need to disregard the KPH on the screen

replace it with C.P..M

After all it is only a pulse counter

regards emma

Tradetek
02-01-2014, 12:40 PM
Wow, guess I set myself up perfectly for those puns...

Anyhow back to my nap.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18993675/Pictures/cat_nap_time_computer.jpg

go1000go
03-26-2017, 04:00 PM
Dusted down the highroller today.

Not ridden in some time, found the high crank a bit awkward to get to grips with.

Swapped out the front wheel for a 20" one I had and riding was a lot easier. Might just put a cut in the front boom to bring the pedal position a bit more.
Just ordered a new 20" wheel with disc brake mount 10mm axle for 16.49 delivered.

So I may get myself to Preston 13 May