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go1000go
07-17-2013, 04:43 PM
Hi folks

Taken then plunge and bought this tonight on eBay
http://s13.postimg.org/xw750ewvb/image.jpg

So my next build is a chopper using this for rear wheel and 20" 48 spoke front wheel.

Got this donor bike (been in the shed for 18 months now)
http://s24.postimg.org/u5i1twrs5/image.jpg
Going to rob the front triple tree forks for the front.

I have been wanting to build a chopper having seen the shocker chopper https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=shocker+chopper+bike&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari#biv=i%7C2%3Bd%7CAogY00CPBKpffM%3A

I have wanted to build one, just need to decide of tube to use, I have a bit of a plan to confirm the look, torn between vigilante, shocker chopper, stretched low rider, but hopefully be able to model all of these full size.

Would welcome some thoughts on other chopper builds, ease of ride etc.

Radical Brad
07-17-2013, 08:42 PM
Looks like it will be a fun fusion of motorcycle and mountain bike.
Looking forward to the build pics.

Brad

graucho
07-17-2013, 11:18 PM
Awesome! Nice ebay find. Fun time ahead. Enjoy.

go1000go
07-20-2013, 10:58 AM
Oh where is that courier

Meantime done some sketching

http://s24.postimg.org/balaplck5/image.jpg

It sort of incorporates most features of choppers I like.

Probably run a jacks haft with a derailer at the jack shaft, then direct 1:1 drive to the left side of the rear wheel, then fit a disc brake to the right side, that should confuse a causal observer.

stormbird
07-20-2013, 06:17 PM
Hi there

Well I don't really like the Shock Chopper but then your drawing is not it ! [ I think it looks odd with the big gap between the pedals and front wheel ]

Like you said build in the bits you like from a chopper , my first one had a simple frame chop but long forks and smaller front wheel and it looks good.
But the next one will be different oh and the one after that.

Have you seen the Low Lifelimo ? http://atomiczombie.wordpress.com/2012/01/26/netherlands-lowlife-limo/ reminds me of your drawing.

regards Paul

ps that MTB is actually hideous and I cannot believe anyone would buy that when it was new ?

go1000go
07-20-2013, 06:54 PM
Hi Stormbird

Yep I am with you, who would ever buy the kids bike, what where they thinking, but for me I can can salvage some parts off it for my build.

Ok the shocker chopper, I like it, but I can't say I want one, otherwise I would not have spent so long thinking about it, I would have built one by now.

I had seen the orange long rider lowlife, I have a collection of photos that I keep looking at. However the most converted designs come from firebikes.com

In Graucho's latest batch of others around the world they feature again.

Using the square section on edge as the vigilante plans, it looks good, however to achieve the firebikes look I would need a bender and what I really want is a ring roller, but cannot see me making one just yet, so hence the straighter tube sections for this build. I could get the tube bent for me, but then I can not say truly I made it. Also I would want the 24" wider rims with fat tyres, then it is truly out of my budget, so this is what I have come up with just now.

Already built a comfy chopper that my son has taken possession of
http://atomiczombie.wordpress.com/tag/recumbent-tadpole-trike/

I liked this one, easy to build, but ended up with the seat much higher up than I wanted it to be.

This next chopper is still in the design stages, but a given is the wider rear wheel, hence the eBay purchase.

I know I do not want a very long bike when finished, been there with another creation and it was a pain to store.

Thanks for the comments, keep watching, however no commitment to when it is to be finished, too hot here in the uk to be grinding and welding, I guess you have it nice too in Notts.

Thanks for the comments, always nice to here someone else's view, that is why I have put it up there. Have you a photo of your chopper ?

stormbird
07-21-2013, 04:17 AM
Tim

Well there is a build thread here :- http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php/5164-Grannys-Nightmare-variant-sort-of-damm-started-another-bike?highlight=

I have been riding that chopper for 3+ years now , only because I have not made it's replacement yet .

I currently have a hydraulic bender and have been experimenting with emulating a tube roller , not easy but do able.


http://s20.postimg.org/lnvwd2nyl/DSCF1353_cropped_sm.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
image search (http://postimage.org/)

The blue frame will probably have a standard 26" wheel in the back as I am saving the car wheels for custom frames.
I want to get away from the bike frame geometry , I used it initially as I wanted a quick build chopper.

I have also chopped the centre out of a space saver and cut a hub up ready [ Vigalante style ]
I have also chopped the centre out of a 15" x 175 steel wheel and got the hub drilled out to spoke.

But have been riding all the time as the weather is so good and so made no more progress on the above.

regards Paul

go1000go
07-21-2013, 05:34 AM
Hi Paul

Thanks for the photos, they look great.
I have had vigilante plans for a couple of years and was also looking at a space saver then I saw this http://forum.atomiczombie.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=3271&c=34
And thought motorbike wheel. Knowing nothing about them, quickly found that with disc brakes on both sides of a front wheel, this gives a mounting point for a disc brake and sprocket.

Regards
Tim

stormbird
07-21-2013, 09:20 AM
Tim

is there a build thread for the green chopper ? it would be nice to see the other side of it ?

regards Paul

Ticktock
07-21-2013, 10:12 AM
If you want to use bicycle discs, you will need an adaptor plate of some sort, as the bolt centers are different. Also the MC system might be just a bit heavey.
But you should have enough space if you design the forks to suit whatever you need for the brakes,'
Steve G,
beijing

go1000go
07-21-2013, 01:52 PM
Hi Paul

Ajskyd is the creator, the link is to his profile showing all his photos he has uploaded

http://forum.atomiczombie.com/member.php/5526-ajskyd

Looks good I think, also uses a motorcycle rear wheel.


Hi Ticktock

Probably need a couple of adaptors, but figured these would be quite easy to make.
As for the weight, not much of a concern as I am only planning using it for short rides with the kids, hopefully it will slow my down, so they can keep up.

Really looking forward to this build, got a couple of paint ideas which should make it look pretty smart.

Tim

go1000go
07-27-2013, 02:48 PM
Hi Folks

Still waiting for the courier, could have walked there by now, anyway tracking says it is at local depot, so should see it Monday

Cut the front end and checked out pedal position and seat.
http://s21.postimg.org/tctdo0k2v/image.jpg

The grid in the background is excel, I find it useful to be able to scale photos based on the wheel size because you can enlarge a photo with a ghosted image of another photo behind it. Drawing simple rectangles then rotating them allows you to determine sizes and rotations.

Checked out the above layout to my original sketch (you can see the seat and handlebars of original sketch) and was amazed to find it all fitted, given it was just a sketch and no scaling used to create the sketch in the first place.

http://s12.postimg.org/qskqyyvnx/image.jpg

Now I did have to rotate the first photo to make it all fit, and the pedal position was a bit further back than the original sketch, but it is all looking great as far as I can see. Scaling the drawing I get the seat to pedal measurement to be 89cm, compared to 92cm measurement on my mountain bike, so this looks about right.

The head tube angle at 73 degrees, so again from what I know this should be ok too, although I would welcome others comments on this, just going off other AZ plans:sunny:

go1000go
08-04-2013, 07:22 AM
Hi Fellow Zombies

Here is where I have got to.......
The couriers have dropped off a variety of purchases and wheel has finally arrived.
I spent a couple of hours (waste of time now) working on an adapter for a fixed cog, but.... I have now decided on having a mega drive mounted to the wheel, rather than a mid drive with the derailleur on it. I might still need a drive to compensate for the alignment of the chain, but that is for later.

http://s18.postimg.org/mxrlpebah/image.jpg

So this is the look, based a bit on he fact that the original spindle is so wide that if I might as well use this width.

http://s2.postimg.org/a8adqh4jd/image.jpg

The photo above shows a bottom bracket shell and lock nut, which allows for easy central alignment to the boss on the wheel.
Now the bore of the bottom bracket shell is 17.5mm and the spindle is 17mm, I will need to remove the back the bottom bracket shell to remove where the ball race used to be, but I will weld the nut to the shell, then grind off the bit I do not need.
Then I can use a bit of tube to create the spacer on the spindle, preventing the sideways shift of the wheel, but more importantly a reasonably good looking wheel with gears.

For the chain alignment, probably used a modified spindle as per overkill chopper having read the plans again.

What do we think of this folks, let me know


Tim

stormbird
08-05-2013, 01:27 AM
Tim

Looks a neat solution , the Megarange is an odd beast it has a huge jump between the lowest gear and next gear [IIRC 34 tooth to 26 tooth ] depending on your choice of front chain ring , I run a 42T but my chopper is lighter than yours and it is very hilly where I live , if you want a smoother gear range at the bottom end ?

It is easy to fix that as the cassette can be taken apart [ just held with 3 rivets ] and different cogs put in to smooth out the jump ,I think I changed the 26 for a 28 from another cassette keeping the original spacers.

regards Paul

go1000go
08-16-2013, 04:39 AM
Hi Folks

Thanks for the idea on the megarange freewheel Stormbird.
I used it on a mountain bike for a while and the point you make is so right, so I will be looking to make this modification.

Last night bend the tube for the rear stays, as wanted to do something, but lacking time right now and I have decided to splash out on some laser cut pieces (probably) for the hub adapters and other connection bits. As I need to buy them in one lot it will cost 25 which seems good value to ensure the accuracy, however the voices in my head say it is not very zombie way and I should buy a drill at 7.56 and make my own bits, but would still need to get some plate, so if not free then quickly I get back to a total 25.

Anyway bending has been a feature of a number of other threads including Ed's epic build, but given i have gone for rectangular section for the rear thought I would give it a go.

http://s7.postimg.org/ywr7pxerv/image.jpg

The tube was pushed over the piece in the vice right up to the jaws for bending, pulled it back for illustration purposes. Simple to do Resulting in ..

http://s23.postimg.org/ive2m61xn/image.jpg

The bent one at the bottom of the picture is the worst as it creased a bit, so most likely redo this one.

Overall it was easy to do, just pull on the tube enough to overcome the spring and pull a few degrees more, then re clamp in the vice about 5mm further out.
Biggest problem would be the inside diameter of the pipe I was using to create the bend if I needed to make a tighter bend, but bigger bore size would fix that.

Everyone should have a go at bending tubes, very satisfying, just take your time and bend in small increments.

graucho
08-16-2013, 08:53 AM
And so it begins. Design, yes the most controversial word in the building process. 7 billion people walking the planet all
having an eye for what pleases them individually. I believe that we always need to stay on track with our vision and
keep it our own. Release your vision inside and make it come alive.

Ok, enough of that intellectual cr@p. Nice flipping start. Keep it fun. May the sparks fly.

go1000go
08-16-2013, 05:53 PM
Hi Graucho and others,
It is all the encouraging comments that just spur me on, loving this build, no rush, no pressure, just want a chopper/cruiser/streched limo bike I have build to the best of my ability and budget.

Whilst tonight's dinner was cooking got out into the garage and finally cut off the boss on one side of the wheel. Really easy to do with the grinder and simplified the fitting of the cog/freewheel for the drive. So same thinking to apply to the disc break mount.
Sleep easy zombies - it looks like this build will avoid the need to have laser cut pieces.

The bent pieces for the rear stays should mount really nicely to the main frame in a different way that should look real nice.

Not avoiding photos at this stage, just not much to see.

Keep watching, more to follow, just time is always a premium, so I treasure the time I get to build.

Radical Brad
08-16-2013, 08:31 PM
Your ideas are starting to take shape.... keep it up!

Brad

stormbird
08-17-2013, 02:28 AM
Hi there

Sheldon Brown has some information of converting the Mega-range here :-

http://sheldonbrown.com/k8.shtml#custom

I was lucky and dropped on some 8 speed Mega-range cassettes quite cheap , I also have a couple of 6 or 7 speed Mega-range but have not tinkered with them yet.

regards Paul

go1000go
08-22-2013, 02:37 PM
Hi Folks

Last nights work
http://s10.postimg.org/ugesgu91l/image.jpg
It might look like I have just cut a piece and welded one of the bent pieces, but also done a lot of detail stuff to do with holding the wheel.

Have decided now to put the mega range on a jack shaft, number of reason, principally it will be easier.

Of on holiday after tomorrow. Yippee so now more welding for a couple of weeks, but should have my laser cut goodies once I come back.

go1000go
09-03-2013, 01:14 PM
Back from holiday and had a day off before back at work tomorrow

http://s21.postimg.org/5y8j9sj2v/image.jpg
Welded a stand for rear wheel
Welded frame, really good start, but not sure the saddle position looks that good, certainly not to original sketch, so might change this.

The seat in the photo is just a temporary one therefore the actual seat might look better.
However with the seat slightly further back and higher up the overall length can be reduced, need to stand back and think on this one.

Surprising how well a welder works with new nozzle tips !!!
http://s23.postimg.org/tprnwy9mj/image.jpg

Also made some of these to help hold the frame square when welding it they worked a treat
http://s22.postimg.org/wm6gw7y8t/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/wm6gw7y8t/)

go1000go
09-03-2013, 01:28 PM
Just sneaked into garage and put on the actual saddle
Appreciate only partial view, but I think it works....http://s12.postimg.org/pkexbf7gt/image.jpg

Any views anyone

stormbird
09-03-2013, 04:37 PM
Hi there

looking good , what sort of diameter are the 2 wheels & those forks look meaty !

I seem to need to work from the back to the front with a bike build that is unusual [ like my chopper & my current tall bike build ] so I start with mounting the rear wheel then the seat & pedals and then I can decide where the forks/handle bars need to be ?

paul

go1000go
09-03-2013, 04:47 PM
Hi Paul

Standard 20 inch wheel at the front, back wheel is off a Kawasaki zzr600, still not measured it yet.

Started joining the back wheel but need a fit more bits so happy for the time being just to have it placed where it needs to be.
This also allows the frame to be flipped on its side to ensure all the pieces are in line.

Tim

go1000go
09-08-2013, 09:02 AM
Low slung

http://s17.postimg.org/dy6hd0uu7/image.jpg

Changed the seat post.

go1000go
09-08-2013, 02:22 PM
Hi Folks
Really good progress today.

http://s21.postimg.org/mx1gij08n/image.jpg

67 degree head tube angle, according to the plans I am ok with this, but is this ok for this type of bike, anyone like to offer an opinion.
Going to calculate some angles off other bikes as well.

Next job mounting the bottom bracket.

stormbird
09-08-2013, 05:13 PM
Tim

Well it is not just about the head tube angle it also involves the rake of the fork , these together give the amount of trail any particular steering combination will have.

Trail of between 2 to 4 inchs will give a bike that handles much like a shop bought one , however many bikes are easily ride-able with the trail well outside these limits , my chopper has about 8" of trail ! and can still be ridden.

The characteristics of a shop bought bike are that there is no wheel flop , wheel flop causes a bike to need to be steered at all times it does not self right if pushed off a straight line , this can easily be seen if you hold a bike by the saddle and walk behind it when it is leant to either side it's natural response is to steer itself to return to the straight ahead path.

With wheel flop once the bike passes a certain angle it accelerates the turn in the direction it is already heading and has no ability to return to the straight ahead path it was following without rider intervention.

When riding my chopper this can be seen as when you start to turn the bike it has the feeling it wants to dig into the turn and tighten the turn very quickly , once you are used to this it is not hard to ride but you do tend to ride more upright in turns it helps to control the dig in tendency.

I have had loads like maybe 80 or 90 people ride my chopper no one has fallen off it I just give them a warning ' ..ride it fast and turn real wide ...' they all come back with a grin on there faces.

As always Brad has it covered :- http://atomiczombie.com/Tutorial%20-%20Rake%20And%20Trail%20-%20Page%201.aspx

Hope this makes sense , if not please ask.

paul

go1000go
09-10-2013, 03:06 PM
Hi Paul

Thanks for the response.
Took the frame for a walk tonight and the front wheel behaved nicely going in a straight line with no sudden flop.
Really got what you were saying, had already gone through the tutorial a few times, but wanted that practical experience which you gave.
Next stage finish welding the head tube and crafting the diamond shape to the round tube.

Then mount bottom bracket and create jack shaft and mounting for that.

Thanks again
Tim

go1000go
04-25-2014, 05:45 PM
Dusted this build down tonight and took a long look at things.
It is go go go now on this again yippeeeeeee.

stormbird
04-26-2014, 03:14 PM
Tim

I am the same dropping and picking up projects at will , still there is a buzz of excitement when you get a second wind and realise it is closer to finished than you thought.

I have found so far all retirement means is you can have more unfinished projects :jester:

go1000go
04-27-2014, 05:07 AM
Hi Paul,

Yes the highroller was to be a quick build in between. Two months back I agreed to a coast to Coast cycle ride, training going well then hurt my foot, so waiting to see a podiatrist, so had a bit of free time, so hence popped back on to this project.
Like you say, it is fun to pick up and put down projects.

The great thing about time between is new ideas come up and I was also given some bike bits.
Yesterday had a whole afternoon building and in that time managed to make an adaptor plate to hold the new 200mm dia disc to the motorbike wheel.
Then turned attention to the rear fork.
Changed my mine earlier in the week and had decided to have the rear wheel fixed and take up the change slack from the jack shaft but moving the jack shaft.
This has resulted in a really nice arrangement for the rear lower fork stays 40x40 on the same diamond edge as the rest of the frame. Also looked again at where the fork joins the frame, and this should look even better than the original plans.

So overall, yes a break mid build appears to have paid off and it certainly has brought a new energy to this build, one that I really want to come out as wow.

stormbird
04-27-2014, 07:20 AM
Hi Paul,

This has resulted in a really nice arrangement for the rear lower fork stays 40x40 on the same diamond edge as the rest of the frame. Also looked again at where the fork joins the frame, and this should look even better than the original plans.

So overall, yes a break mid build appears to have paid off and it certainly has brought a new energy to this build, one that I really want to come out as wow.

Tim

Ok where are the pictures :):joker::jester:

Twinkle
04-27-2014, 08:11 AM
Tim

Ok where are the pictures :):joker::jester:

Photos , photos , photos.....:confused:..:rolleyes4:..:builder2:..:t az:..:jester:..:joker:

Pictures worth a thousand words te he

Raining here again ... groan

regards emma

go1000go
04-27-2014, 08:39 AM
Ok folks, I hear you and I knew I was to get this, but short of time earlier.

Here goes
http://s11.postimg.org/mzws9wbyr/image.jpg

And another view
http://s1.postimg.org/cry7r5qj3/image.jpg

Sorry, ok!

go1000go
04-27-2014, 03:43 PM
Couple more hours tonight saw the rear fork sorted, now just need to join them together http://s2.postimg.org/lwuk9i9l5/image.jpg

DannyC
04-27-2014, 05:52 PM
Now that looks really cool. :-)

Go you!

Regards,

Dan.

stormbird
04-28-2014, 01:58 AM
Tim

Some good ideas there , I like how you made the frame free standing from the start and your wheel support.

Far better than gravity and pieces of wood I tend to use ! which always fails at the most inopportune moments !!!

go1000go
04-28-2014, 03:18 PM
Hi Paul, Dan

Thanks for the comments.
Paul, as I build more bikes, I am enjoying thinking about the build as much as the build, making the more difficult annoying things easier for myself.

Don't know whether you saw these in #21

http://s8.postimg.org/7ivkfk0o5/image.jpg

Made from equal angle they act as mini vee blocks so building the frame on the diamond, actually was a breeze. Just used two of these under each length, balanced a pair of them on blocks for a second tube to overlap, then it was easy to find the cut position required to form a great mitre.

An old ikea work top I had lying around was used as a flat surface to make the frame on.

One thing I have kept meaning to do is weld a tee bar to the frame support, but never got round to it as yet.

Glad to be able to share.

Tim

DannyC
04-28-2014, 05:41 PM
Hi Tim,

No, I didn't see those V-Block-a-likes before. Great idea!

Dan.

go1000go
05-01-2014, 03:21 PM
Tim

Some good ideas there , I like how you made the frame free standing from the start and your wheel support.

Far better than gravity and pieces of wood I tend to use ! which always fails at the most inopportune moments !!!


Hi Paul, yep the frame support and wheel support certainly make things a lot easier, I remember my first build, wishing it had five hands, and then getting everything just right held with magnets only to knock it all at the last minute.

Been burning some midnight oil and got this done.

http://s29.postimg.org/54vlwafmf/image.jpg

http://s4.postimg.org/x9e5talp9/image.jpg


I think from an aesthetic point it needs rear stays, a bit like this in 25x25mm square

http://s17.postimg.org/qn5gx3y73/image.jpg

Let me know stays or no stays, have your say

darnthedog
05-01-2014, 03:39 PM
My vote is leave off unless there is flexing when you sit on it. Or later when peddling before you paint. It has such a coolness factor without.

stormbird
05-01-2014, 03:51 PM
Leave them off , it looks so ' unbike ' like without them

Twinkle
05-01-2014, 04:25 PM
Ride it and try it , looks better without , You can always fit one before you paint it .

regards emma

go1000go
05-03-2014, 03:03 AM
Thank you everyone to your comments, the stays stay as metal stock.

Just looking at a photo on my ipad planning where the jack shaft is to go and goodness gracious me, look at the photo number !!!!!

http://s21.postimg.org/3qb82hiev/image.jpg

stormbird
05-03-2014, 07:32 AM
Tim

Will you be able to reach the handle bars ?

edspedalcars
05-03-2014, 11:28 AM
Thank you everyone to your comments, the stays stay as metal stock.

Just looking at a photo on my ipad planning where the jack shaft is to go and goodness gracious me, look at the photo number !!!!!

http://s21.postimg.org/3qb82hiev/image.jpg

Hi Tim

I vote to leave'em off. Also check the number of replies on my Inferno build. Coincidence or what?

go1000go
05-03-2014, 04:45 PM
They say the devilmakes work for idle hands,well spent the day mounting the jack shaft. (Must be something to do with 666 of 666)

No photos, so not happy with the result of today's time spent fixing the drive train, creating a jack shaft, but I suppose it was always to be part of the process.

If you can follow my thinking, I needed to determine the width of the jack shaft to ensure the power got through to the wheel, let us call this X. X is good.

Wanted the return from the derailer from the freewheel to be near as possible to be parallel to the lower crossmember, call this Z, Z is too high.

Now I wanted the jack shaft to be as close as possible to the seat tube Y, and yes Y is out too.

I think meatloaf said "two out of three ain't back"

One out of three needs cutting and rewelding.

Oh well, we live and learn.


PS. If you try to type
d e v i l
with no spaces it appears as ***** , strange things going on !!!!

go1000go
05-05-2014, 01:56 PM
Tim

Will you be able to reach the handle bars ?


Well good question Paul, but if the bars are long enough, then yes .

go1000go
05-05-2014, 02:06 PM
Bank Holidays are great.

X Y Z all good now.

http://s30.postimg.org/l6f9cuxj5/image.jpg

It looks good.

However that cantilever stick the jack shaft is fixed to wobbles around a bit.

Probably need to add another support 25mm x 25mm

http://s9.postimg.org/fy5z6459r/image.jpg

Also the hub I attached to mount the cog to the wheel is not as good as I thought, so these might need a better adaptor making.

darnthedog
05-05-2014, 02:08 PM
Tim
I was eating lunch at my favored Bar & Grill and browsing your post when I got a where can I buy one of those? It was the Bartender and about a dozen others joined in. It was fun having a little Ipad Itouch screen and everyone wanting a look at your project. Lots of disappointment when I said it was a home made creation- But many that's cool compliments. Keep up the good work.

go1000go
05-06-2014, 03:23 PM
Thanks very much for that Darnthedog, nice to hear that.

Had a very quick look at things tonight, the hub is most definitely out of line, and have not finished welding that support stick for it all yet.

It will be the weekend now I guess

go1000go
05-07-2014, 03:54 PM
Hi Folks,

Just thought I would show you this.


Not thinking about the hub misalignment issue today and decided what have I to lose if I increase the size of the flange fixing holes. Did I this got it all running true, tightened up and well here it is.....



http://youtu.be/2tQh9fTmpFw


Just holding what I hope will be the handlebars in place for now.


:sunny:

HHJJ
05-07-2014, 04:33 PM
Fabtastic. Luxury!
Good job.

DannyC
05-07-2014, 05:18 PM
Looks the business Tim :-)

Enjoy!

Twinkle
05-07-2014, 05:39 PM
This must be the sequel to "Sleepy Hollow " with the headless bike man ( things have moved on a few years )

Looking good there Tim and almost time for the test ride

regards emma

stormbird
05-08-2014, 02:19 AM
Tim

Well that threw me ?

I expected it to be BIG like this :-
http://atomiczombie.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/coastlinecruise3069a.jpg

Which is why I was asking about the bars.

go1000go
05-08-2014, 02:28 AM
Hi Folks,

Thanks for all your nice comments.

Paul, I have seen this bike/chopper before I started planning this project.

Not sure whether you thought my chopper was going to be longer, but I think the bars I am planning to make look about right.

go1000go
05-09-2014, 04:26 PM
Just bought some bits and bobs.

Tandem brake cable 305cm, that will work for the rear brake

graucho
05-09-2014, 09:37 PM
Looks like you'll be riding in the near future Tim. Once you start mentioning "brakes" your getting close.
I like the design. That front end looks solid. Seems to shift nice looking at your video. Keep up the great work!

go1000go
05-10-2014, 12:44 PM
Looks like you'll be riding in the near future Tim. Once you start mentioning "brakes" your getting close.
I like the design. That front end looks solid. Seems to shift nice looking at your video. Keep up the great work!


Wow thanks for the compliment, really nice to hear from you Graucho

Just had a quick look. It perhaps is not very chopper, but I will be adding a front derailleur, as even nipping to town involves too big a hill.
The good thing is I have a derailleur that has the tube mount lower than the unit, so all you see is the changeover bar. I had considered leaving it off and changing it by hand, grabbing the chain, but I have a fairly good idea for the gear change shifter unit, more to follow.

And yes I know photos are required, but sorry you will have to wait for them.

go1000go
05-11-2014, 02:42 PM
Hi Folks,

Well despite "Top Tip" thread I just posted, I am a happy man with progress. Tarted up the jack shaft mount and the way it is held in place.

Got the front derailleur fitted

http://s29.postimg.org/esl4ceu07/image.jpg

And it looks like it is just there, hanging in space, thanks to the stumpy post I managed to fit to mount it from


http://s3.postimg.org/3r0zpyayr/image.jpg

Just started to mount the rapid fire shifters, more to follow, when I get a bit of time.

go1000go
05-16-2014, 12:43 PM
:sunny:


http://youtu.be/FJP0uXlI4wg


Need to adjust handlebars to have a more comfortable grip, but this was first ride



Oh and fit brakes, gears, paint

stormbird
05-16-2014, 01:12 PM
Tim

Looking good , brakes ? why ? the cables will only make it look cluttered :jester:

DannyC
05-16-2014, 03:42 PM
The smile says it all!

Enjoy.

Dan.

go1000go
05-16-2014, 03:46 PM
Tim

Looking good , brakes ? why ? the cables will only make it look cluttered


Thanks Paul, I have plans for those ugly cables, started on them today.


The smile says it all!

Enjoy.

Dan.

Bit of a fib, actually rode it for about an hour, smiled and smiled and smiled.

Just been out for another sneaky ride, really nice to peddle slowly.

So yes most happy, thanks Dan

edspedalcars
05-16-2014, 11:37 PM
OK..I'm jealous with envy.

I started mine in Mar , you in July. Your pedalling http://www.bikeforums.net/images/smilies/speedy.gif and I'm still pushing. http://forum.atomiczombie.com/images/smilies/sweatdrop.gif

Looking good Tim.

There's nothing like the feeling one gets when they have Dreamt, Drawn, and Driven, a creation of their own.

Maybe I missed it, but what color is your art work going to be? Something flashy?, or something sinister?

Ticktock
05-16-2014, 11:44 PM
Hi Ed,
Heres a good excuse er ---sorry---reason ----yours has more wheels!
Steve G

go1000go
05-17-2014, 12:39 AM
Early here in the UK, going to be a beautiful day weather wise and the birds are already wake and chirping for all their worth.


OK..I'm jealous with envy.

I started mine in Mar , you in July. Your pedalling and I'm still pushing.

Looking good Tim.

There's nothing like the feeling one gets when they have Dreamt, Drawn, and Driven, a creation of their own.

Maybe I missed it, but what color is your art work going to be? Something flashy?, or something sinister?


Hi Ed, thanks for that.

Colours, I had a plan right from the start of White then use highlights of pale blue or even black for some of the inner facing parts of the frame.

But now a bit further down the line, I have enough orange from my Highroller build to go orange, and I love this colour it just seems to work so well.

So good question, no really good answer at this stage, anyone like to throw in their thoughts! :juggle2::juggle2::juggle2:

Ticktock
05-17-2014, 04:08 AM
Be daring---go with the orange , and be seen!!
Steve G

Twinkle
05-17-2014, 08:10 AM
Go for Orange

Looking good and it seems from the smile factor you have a winner .

regards emma

edspedalcars
05-17-2014, 10:48 AM
I want to jump on the 'Orange' bandwagon.

How about something to accentuate the unique lines of your bike.
Orange and black have always been a favorite.

I'm seeing the main frame in orange with strategically placed black,
(like the 'back side' of the front down tube) fading down into the orange.

Maybe a similar look for the top and bottom tubes.

Maybe some graphics (homemade or stencil), or just plain line striping.

Just some stimulus, for 'your' creative mind.

This is the fun part. Can't wait to see what you come up with.

No Pressure here, But we're watching..https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR1nIRCJ6c1Xh_zEQT81YjVey_ezN3GV PnKuQqFSuDrcxFbsMiZ

Tradetek
05-17-2014, 11:06 AM
I think Ed's suggestion sounds like a good idea, paint the bottom/back sides of each tube black first and then spray orange on the top/fonts with overspray at the crossover for a fade. Even better would be to watch some of Groucho's airbrushing vids and airbrush the transitions if not the whole bike.

I think that would like sharp.

Bill

DannyC
05-17-2014, 11:36 AM
Orange & Black certainly would be eye-catching.
In the meantime the "Rat-Rod" industrial steel look is cool enough.

Enjoy.

Dan.

go1000go
05-17-2014, 12:18 PM
Hi everyone,

Ok Orange it is, with black used in some way or other.

Right now here is the next challenge, what is this bit going to be used for?

http://s24.postimg.org/9en19kryd/image.jpg

I just remembered I bought this at the same time I bought the steel for this project, two cuts later and perfect, but what is it

stormbird
05-17-2014, 01:15 PM
Tim

Mudguard ?

I like this orange/black bike:-

http://atomiczombie.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/foto0343a.jpg

go1000go
05-17-2014, 03:18 PM
No not a mudguard, not this piece

go1000go
05-17-2014, 03:26 PM
Hi folks


Now it is cooler, after a glourious days sunshine, just spent a quick hour on the handle bars

http://s23.postimg.org/a8qbxqiej/image.jpg

http://s22.postimg.org/lda6y3hsx/image.jpg

Now I am thinking with the amount of flex I will need to add a cross brace

Option 1

http://s2.postimg.org/t02tlkqzd/image.jpg

Or Option 2
http://s18.postimg.org/62boroart/image.jpg

Thoughts and comments on which option you favour, I have no preference yet, let me know

Thanks everyone

edspedalcars
05-17-2014, 10:37 PM
Thoughts and comments on which option you favour, I have no preference yet, let me know



Hi Tim

I don't want to be the stick in the mud, or step on 'your' creativeness, (you did ask http://forum.atomiczombie.com/images/smilies/smile.gif) BUT, I'm not in favor of either choice.

Here's why;

The bike 'has' a theme. In my one good eye, neither of the two options, matches your basic build theme.

That area will be right up front for the whole world to see. It, IMMHO, will become the most important design element, (viewing wise), therefore needs a bit of thought, as to, 'what message do you want to convey', (if any) while 'bracing' the handlebars.

Maybe the bracing could incorporate the name of your build, or a design you like. Maybe a diamond centered with 1/4" rod/tube, or ?????

For example, taking a page from Sir Joey, and the names of some of his builds. Here's a couple:

http://forum.atomiczombie.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=3045&catid=member&imageuser=55
http://forum.atomiczombie.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=2868&catid=member&imageuser=55

In your case, 'Another Chopper' ???????

Question.

Were you thinking of running the cables through the handlebars?
I can see how that could work, and/or maybe the cables going through the bracing tubing.

I wished I had a better idea for you, but I just got home and haven't really had much 'stare time'.
Like my own build, sometimes I have just sit and stare at it until 'THE VISION' comes into focus.

Just some 'artistic' thoughts. Their totally yours, You can use them, or abuse them.

Following with anticipation.

Tradetek
05-17-2014, 11:48 PM
Have to agree with Ed. Don't like either one. What about some 3/4" square tube turned like the rest of the frame and making an X or maybe a diamond in the middle with a tube connecting each side to the upper and lower part of the handle bars. Whatever you decide, I think that square tube turned on edge will be a good material... actually I think that would look good for the entire handlebar other than the grip area.

Bill

Ticktock
05-18-2014, 12:02 AM
Must be my day to agree with every one! Yep, square tube on edge, making swept back bars with some form of spacer/ stiffener, and the only round bits being for the grips!
As suggested, you may be able to hide the cables in this somehow. think it would look much better on your bike than round tube.
Steve G

edspedalcars
05-18-2014, 01:48 AM
Hi Tim

Read Bill and Steve's reply and this came to mind.

Using the same diamond style you now have, fashion a set of handlebars, something like my example.
Maybe 3/4" (19.05mm) or 1 " (25.40mm) square tubing

Attach it to the gooseneck, probably with a round tube, or weld a gooseneck to a short piece of square tubing.
All cables would be routed inside the handlebars. The square tubing and the 'X' pattern should be plenty stiff.

Size of the tubing for the 'X', you would know best, as your right there to visually compare.

Option 1

http://s28.postimg.org/cqro54e4p/Another_Chopper_Idea.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/cqro54e4p/)
Option 2

http://s28.postimg.org/dugduto5l/Another_Chopper_Idea_2.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/dugduto5l/)

Option 3

Following my lead...."I don't want to be the stick in the mud, or step on 'your' creativeness, (you did ask ) BUT, I'm not in favor of either choice."http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-laughing014.gif

go1000go
05-18-2014, 03:51 AM
Ok, a night asleep :sleep1: and you have answered and I am absolutely fine with all the comments, I asked, because I was not sure.

I used what I had and thought that the round tube handlebars would complement the round tube for the front suspension, I was wrong and I am ok with that.

The handle bars do not work in their current form, but what I have managed to establish is the right position for my hands and given on other builds this has taken up to five attempts, I am setting a bit of a record now after attempt one.

So given the ideas suggested so far, I just nipped in the garage found the only piece of 1" square tube I had and taped it in place. Result I think.

Apologies for the cluttered background, but to get a better shot now, this minute, requires the garage door opening and well I would not be popular.

http://s28.postimg.org/dycjhrrf1/image.jpg

So there you have it, up for comments please.

The square tube will replace all the round tube apart from the grips and where it is fixed to the steerer via the BMX head stem 4 bolt clamp thing.


Just wonder do I keep the two new square pieces long and join them in a vee point above my new light.

Yes, the plan is to hide the cables in the tube, hence earlier posts saying I had a plan for those ugly cables when Stormbird had commented earlier.


So Comments please, the good, the bad, any and all comments are really useful, having you all who think and create similar projects, comment is excellent.


Big thanks to you all.

Ticktock
05-18-2014, 05:16 AM
Hi,
That's as close to what I had in mind as you can get!
When it comes to how to make it, my approach would be to fish mouth the top end of the square tube to fit the grip tube, which is a bit long on the inside end, and capped off. Make the grip tube just long enough for what has to go on it.
At the steering head, because you have a full clamp goose neck there is no need to thread the bars though anything, a short round tube is used in the center, the ends being fish mouthed to fit the square tubes, which could be left long at the front until they meet in a nice neat point. Holes can be placed in the tube allow cables to exit at the right place, but think carefully how you are going to get them in , and out , before you weld everything . Worst case would be having to tie the cables alongside the straight tubes.
I think you will need a brace between the square tubes at the top ends, but you could judge that once its welded up .
Hope that all makes sense, and helps
Steve G

Tradetek
05-18-2014, 11:57 AM
Tim,

First, just to be sure you didn't take my comments the way I intended, don't feel like you have to follow any advice or input you get from anyone. The build is yours and you should do what FEELS right, pleasing, and fitting to YOUR eyes. I personally like unique, and your build has been, even if it doesn't have the post count to rival Ed...

When someone asks for feedback or ideas, I personally look at it like it's someone asking for what we call on this side of the pond "a brain storming" session. Personally, I didn't think that the bars by themselves looked out of place at all before posting ideas about bracing at which time I felt like the BRACED bars looked out of place and suddenly detracted from the esthetics of the unique look of the build. Keeping in mind that we were being asked specifically to focus on the bars... I felt like the simple straight crossbar suddenly made me think of a BMX bike, while the other one, well it gave the impression of some sort of swoopy feel that didn't seem to fit the hard edges of the build.

Honestly, I think that plain swept bars would look fine, and the only reason that I can think of that you might be looking at the braces is because it looks like you might be using some sort of kids swingset trapeeze swing or ladder or something for the bars and that they are flimsier than the tube that would normally be used for bars. If you want something simple, but like the swept back bars reminiesent of a WWII military motorcycle, then you might want to conside just a very short crossbrace from the bottom of the tube near the bar clamp to about 3 or 4 inches above the bottom bend. That being said, if flex is a big concern you might want to cross over the bar clamp because that is probably the weakest point of the bar because it is where all the leverage is, in whic case you could make a very low "X" near the bottom of the bars so it didn't take away from the swept back bars, or you could do sort of an "H" near the bottom with the top stretched way out so that you could keep it very low in the bars, again not to distract as much from the look.

The other thing that you could do is wrap the bottom in a sort of shim, but on both sides where they bar fits into the clamp, and weld it on. This puts more material where the leverage is focused and strengthens the bar. If you cut a high quality MTB bar in half you will see that is how they are formed, especially aluminum bars. If you look at almost any other sort of bicycle handlebar they will normally bulge out in the center. This adds strength even on lower end bars.

The reason why I thought that the plain bars were fine was because it sort of steam punk, and I'm just used to seeing that from a metal art forum I participate in.

Bill

edspedalcars
05-18-2014, 01:14 PM
If you are a fan of OCC, (American Chopper) tv series, you may have seen this handlebar design.

I've tried to find the episode that they did this, but no success as yet.

I also typed in american chopper and got tons of photos of custom handlebar creations.
You will find some that are made with square tubing, which can give you an idea what a particular style may look like.

http://s28.postimg.org/5eqtdblah/Another_chopper_3.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/5eqtdblah/)

Good luck with this Tim. You've had a lot thrown at you. Sincerely hope some of it has helped.

go1000go
05-18-2014, 03:54 PM
Hi folks

Thank you yet again, you have all been busy on my behalf again. I wish to answer you all because I value the thoughts and inspiration you provide. It is so nice, more than nice to share a hobby that others have also.


That's as close to what I had in mind as you can get! Steve G
I was actually very surprised at how this turned out, given I just laid one piece of steel down


First, just to be sure you didn't take my comments the way I intended, don't feel like you have to follow any advice or input you get from anyone. The build is yours and you should do what FEELS right, pleasing, and fitting to YOUR eyes. I personally like unique, and your build has been. Bill

Bill, wow thanks for that. I am my own person, yet when asking for advice, I am quite prepared for whatever comes back. Bill i agree the build is mine, yet there have been numerous times where when seeking advice it has helped sparked further thoughts. So I invite and welcome all comments and suggestions and I am particularly taken with what you have replied with about liking the round bars, so a heart felt thanks.


Honestly, I think that plain swept bars would look fine, and the only reason that I can think of that you might be looking at the braces is because it looks like you might be using some sort of kids swingset trapeeze swing. Bill

Bill, you are bang on right, the handlebars come from my daughters old chair, they looked about right and I used them, only to find they were a bit less than substantial. So hence why I started the whole brace idea. I have no facility to bend tube myself and I have been thinking about some small webs, but even then i think the flexibility will be too much.


If you are a fan of OCC, (American Chopper) tv series, you may have seen this handlebar design. Ed

Ed, what a fan errr well yes a fan, and fantom works, fast n loud, desert car kings, American restoration, American pickers, counts customs, west coast customs..... And probably a few more. Whilst these provide inspiration, they all tend to have access to more tools or skills. I have limited myself to a welder and grinder and pillar drill. I would love to have a simple bender, even the one you use are not available here in the UK. I tried to get one, maybe I need to pm you or one of the us builders to get one here in the Uk. Anyway back to the build, due to my limited tools I am trying to do everything within the limit of the tools I have, so when the flexible chair tube design did not work out and braces seemed the next step to make them stronger, however I still unsure what to do next on the handlebars for all the advice.


You've had a lot thrown at you. Sincerely hope some of it has helped. Ed
Yes but I asked, the good thing is i remember some of your other advice about standing back and allowing some thinking time. Well I have this week at work then holiday with the family the week after. I have been really pleased with what I have achieved, but the jury is most definitely out on the handlebars.

What I am itching to do it show you all two hours progress today, this will be in my next post, but I wanted you all to know, if I had not already gathered, that I am not offended, but very pleased with all contributions to my building efforts - time for a quick brew then more to show you all.

go1000go
05-18-2014, 04:22 PM
post 74.
Right now here is the next challenge, what is this bit going to be used for?

http://s30.postimg.org/y7a68jirh/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/y7a68jirh/)

Paul you guessed mudguard, which is what it was, a trailer mudguard.


I talk on this one!!

http://youtu.be/7L0ZARffCbU

And here is a still image

http://s14.postimg.org/nt24xlxhd/image.jpg

Really pleased with this "gear cover" as I refer to it in the video. It has two fixing screws and it also helps retain the gear cables neatly in place.

The plates to mount the rapid fire shifters took a bit a designing, to be as simple as they are, but the end result I am real happy with, all the gears work, those eagle eyed viewers will see I swapped out the rear derailleur.

Might just have to locally remove some of the frame to allow the derailleur to operate properly, but this can wait for now.

Tradetek
05-18-2014, 09:20 PM
Ed, what a fan errr well yes a fan, and fantom works, fast n loud, desert car kings, American restoration, American pickers, counts customs, west coast customs..... And probably a few more.

Since you have seen those shows, think about how they make the exhaust pipes on the motorcycle builds. They use pieces of tube and then weld them together to get the bends they need. If you still want a simple swept look, keep an eye out for a piece of metal tube with a bend that you need, like a pair of cheap drop road bike bars (may want to stay away from chrome, I hear its a pain to strip off unless someone else knows of an easy way to get it off).

Over here we have a custom mandrel bending company called Columbia River Mandrel Bending (http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/) and they have off cuts, seconds, extra runs, etc that they send out a list of every couple of weeks where you can get pretty good deals on prebent tubes. I realize that this is in the US, but you might look for something similar in the UK. You might even want to call a place that does custom exhaust work, they might know of a place or be able to do some bends for you.

The other technique is do the slight bends by hand and then use a couple of small cutoffs to make the more significant bends. Will come out a more angular, but might work well with the build in a subtle way...?

Bill

Tradetek
05-18-2014, 09:24 PM
Another thought is to build a bender out of wood. Here is a link to a youtube video for a DIY bender made out of wood. It's on my list for "when I have time".


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcTIDlDevog&list=PLo1d6XWkcsJPmB4Hgc4b8QLp6fzCZB6yI&feature=share&index=3

Bill

Tradetek
05-18-2014, 10:19 PM
Oh and after catching up on Ed's latest update I just remembered that "kerf bending" is another option. Basically, you cut slices out of a tube and then bend it like a snake and weld the cuts together and grind smooth.

Probably easier to look up the method by catching up on "The Articulator (http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php/7363-The-Articulator?highlight=spinner)" thread by Spinner.

Bill

stormbird
05-19-2014, 02:27 AM
Tim

Something like this ?

http://s27.postimg.org/kg396xjtf/dsc03240ed2.jpg

i do have an hydraulic bender that you could come over and use , however I have not yet made the dies to bend square tubing that is way down my current ' to do list '

go1000go
05-19-2014, 02:31 AM
Hi Bill

Thanks for all the thoughts, just need to think it all through as to where to go next.

I don't know whether you remember my abandoned project the kick bike, that I tried kerfing, but the wall thickness was way too thin. As for tube bender, yep on my list, even gone as far as a design, but cannot justify the space it will take up for the small amount of use it will get.

Having just seen Ed's thread and refer to original idea, here is one of the design I drew out, not full scale so the handlebars were always just a guess. They show swoopy bars. Also that orange chopper was also in my photo log as the picture before these designs.

http://s29.postimg.org/7a2m9lnd3/image.jpg

I need a decent photo side of current progress to compare to this I think.

Anyway time for work now

Ticktock
05-19-2014, 07:03 AM
I.m not surprised really, as once the basic idea is formed, there are only a limited number of ways it can be done. Now I know the limits of the tools, then the straight squares looks like a good way to go, as it eliminates all bending, is certain to be strong enough, and places the bars in a good location, with a logical transition from square to round.
Hope it works.
Steve G

go1000go
05-19-2014, 01:45 PM
Hi folks.

Paul is that your vigilante in progress, it looks great. I must dig out my own set of plans, thanks for the reminder.

Steve G, off to take some photos tonight hopefully to help with the thought process. Still not sure what to do hey ho.

Tim

stormbird
05-19-2014, 04:37 PM
Tim

No just one of a number of pictures of this chopper saved from the net , yes I need to start another chopper I have 2 car wheels started.

However I am currently building Tall Bikes & chopzone choppers for a local kids holiday fun week [ or so I am told ! ]

go1000go
05-20-2014, 03:41 PM
Hi everyone,

Got some steel this lunchtime and......


http://youtu.be/QuC8XnrlbP0

Given all the input I had to have a go. This is not the real thing, just a mock up, but it appears to feel/look right.

Ed, having taken your que I went back to the original design and saw where I had varied and not for the better.
Anybody want to buy a bmx steerer clampy thing, bought in error.

http://s22.postimg.org/4veadal4x/image.jpg

:)

edspedalcars
05-20-2014, 06:47 PM
Hey! Tim

Yes! Yes ! Yes !. I think you are on to something there. I like what I see so far.

I really liked the side profile. The angle you have, seems to follow your bottom tube, at least from the perspective I get from the video.

The (old) handlebars look a lot better as a 'work support'.

Exactly what do you have in mind for the rear of the handlebars.

Are you thinking of putting in a 'straight' cross bar, as your mock up suggests?

If so, here's a thought for you.

http://s28.postimg.org/colkniemh/another_chopper_4.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/colkniemh/)

For me Tim, your setup this time is much more exciting.

Tradetek
05-20-2014, 10:42 PM
Looks good. Question though... are you planning to weld the bottom of the bars to the fork stanchion tubes or did you just stick them there for mockup?

Bill

go1000go
05-21-2014, 02:08 AM
Hi Ed and Bill

Thanks for the comments


I really liked the side profile. The angle you have, seems to follow your bottom tube, at least from the perspective I get from the video.

I will try and get a better, cleaner photo tonight without all the clutter in the background to show the angle. Actually I had not considered this, it sort of happened, because it all looked right and felt right.



Exactly what do you have in mind for the rear of the handlebars.

Are you thinking of putting in a 'straight' cross bar, as your mock up suggests?

Actually hoping there is not need for a support, certainly little flex seen in the tube, as a piece of tube, so I would rather avoid putting one in, however for a looks point of view, if it is missing something then in it goes. The only reason the straight piece is in the photo is as a work stand.



Re: Another chopper

Looks good. Question though... are you planning to weld the bottom of the bars to the fork stanchion tubes or did you just stick them there for mockup?

Bill

Looks like zombies having mind reading capability also!:jester:

I found this tube is a good fit in the bore of the stanchion tube, and would like this look in the final version, but if they are fitted into these as the finished design then I need to fill in the gaps to stop the stanchions filling with rain water over time. If welded to the stanchions a permanent fit, then not serviceable, I am sure I will not weld them.

I really like the look they give a transition from the round to the diamond/square. Originally the fork stanchions had black plastic bungs and I had thought fit these then sit the square on top, but then the look is gone.

More thinking from me needed, why have you a thought Bill.......

Tradetek
05-21-2014, 03:02 AM
Normally stanchion tubes in a quality fork are either chromed steel or stainless steel. It looks to me like you might have taken these from a mini-bike (motorcycle) in which case I would not expect them to NOT be run of the mill mild steel.

Personally if I were building it, I'm not sure I'd be comfortable welding anything directly to the stanchions, but I might look at making a sort of custom triple tree plate and welding the bottoms to it and possible look at adding a small bit of tube to sort of visually tie them together. Alternatively if the top of the stanchion is threaded, you might be able to screw a tube into the top and then through a plate and put a cap on it... This would add rigidity to the whole structure also...

Bill

darnthedog
05-21-2014, 08:06 AM
I have the mind of Bill here as to not welding the Square into the Stanchion. Instead make a plate that duplicates the triple tree plate.
Cut square holes for the handle bar tube to stick through. The you can use that plate to weld it up the square tubing to stick down into the tubes. And attach via the steering tube clamp nut. That make is removable and covers the holes to stop rain water at same time. You could even add a little gasket material to squeeze between the handle bar plate and the triple tree plate. Just a thought anyways.

edspedalcars
05-21-2014, 10:32 AM
I liked the 'look' your set up had, for the front , but must agree with Bill and Bruce.

I'm not as good at making these CAD drawings as Ticktock, but this gives 'me' practice.

Taking your idea (blue lines) and using Bills/Bruces idea, my mind sees this.

http://s28.postimg.org/s2juop4zt/another_chopper_5.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/s2juop4zt/)http://s28.postimg.org/hr7hw1dah/another_chopper_6.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/hr7hw1dah/)

Just another thought to throw onto the pile.

It's fun watching this come together.

go1000go
05-21-2014, 03:26 PM
Hi folks,

A picture says a thousand words they say, so here are a few thousand.


http://youtu.be/PXkZXVhgYZA

http://s16.postimg.org/4eif1wjtx/image.jpg

go1000go
05-21-2014, 03:44 PM
Hi Folks

Yes Ed we are on the same page, just want to show you this...


http://s28.postimg.org/iwrn8y54t/image.jpg

The centre tube is able to be welded to, normal stem.

http://s21.postimg.org/3zsjxlj07/image.jpg

http://s30.postimg.org/81pizhl1t/image.jpg

http://s29.postimg.org/e2oliez93/image.jpg

http://s8.postimg.org/yv6wb9wmd/image.jpg


http://youtu.be/PXkZXVhgYZA


So by placing the grips in front of my knees seems to work, arms not too outstretched.

As for the stanchions, I will N O T weld to them, bit of thinking, but in think the square tubes will be fitted into them, maybe a collar welded to prevent the rain water ingress.

Happy viewing

Tim

edspedalcars
05-21-2014, 05:19 PM
......and a few thousand more http://forum.atomiczombie.com/images/smilies/cheesy.gif

Made these pics before I saw your last post. So not to waste them, I'll just post them anyway.

Sometimes seeing how 'other things' are made, will help to guide us toward the way we want it.
Hmmmmm, is that 'reverse engineering' logic? http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-think006.gif

http://s28.postimg.org/yua9rjtzd/2014_05_21_12.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/yua9rjtzd/)http://s28.postimg.org/ymmmv1j0p/2014_05_21_12.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/ymmmv1j0p/)

http://s28.postimg.org/58qwfggax/2014_05_21_12.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/58qwfggax/)http://s28.postimg.org/f7bv1xpqh/2014_05_21_12.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/f7bv1xpqh/)

Your 'industrial look' is really developing.

I still like the side profile the way you have it, (sans the pointy bit, as I suggested). I would just use a bigger industrial (vintage?) headlight.

stormbird
05-22-2014, 01:45 AM
Hi all

Have you seen this site ?

http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php

Some great builds and ideas ?

This may inspire ?

http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/data/photos/l/0/57-1386837909-ea1b04a795e99cbc6fb1baa9e8a2b484.jpg


here :- http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?gallery/albums/bigjim.9/

Ticktock
05-22-2014, 08:38 AM
Now that looks much more in keeping with the rest of the bike!!!
Just watch that you can get both full peddle movement and full steering at any time--no crashes on the knee , steel is much harder than knees, and so is then road when you fall off!
Not sure how you intend to join the square to the round "grip', but I am a bit worried by the square projecting back past the grip, but I guess you plan to cut that off later.
Have fun,
Steve G

PS Ed--nothing wrong with the drawings!!

Tradetek
05-22-2014, 09:42 AM
So... a couple of things in this one...

In the video it looks like you might have problems turning with the knee position. It is hard to tell from the old video of you riding whether the new bars might be a problem. If they are, simple angle the existing ones up, cut the off at the point where they should clear your knees for a turn, and then weld the cut portions back on at an angle to sweep them back again.

Next, the black rubber things on the stanchions are dust boots. Normally they would be attached in some way to the fork slider, frequently by a zip tie. We would create the same thing on our MTB's using bicycle inner tubes. You should be able to do the same thing but you will need to adjust the stanchions so that they are a little above the top of the fork crown and might file a slight groove in the stanchion to get a zip tie to stay in place. You will probably need to add something to the bottom of the handlebar... um... let's call it a support tube... in order to get a good seal on the square tube, maybe a bit of weld filler to build it up some?

Another idea would be to make a sort of skirt on the square tube that could protect it... Something like this...

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18993675/Forum_Support/go1000go%20Fork%20Support%20Skirt.png

And then push the top of the bicycle tube seal up underneath the skirt. With the bottom connected to the top of the stanchion, it should give you pretty good rain protection. Also, I might look good too ;)

Bill

go1000go
05-22-2014, 01:27 PM
Hi folks,

Thanks again for your interest and thoughts


Another idea would be to make a sort of skirt on the square tube that could protect it... Something like this...



Bill, wow that has saved me some time, I was thinking how this might look or a transition to round, but I think you have there sir.


Just watch that you can get both full peddle movement and full steering at any time--no crashes on the knee , steel is much harder than knees, and so is then road when you fall off!
Not sure how you intend to join the square to the round "grip', but I am a bit worried by the square projecting back past the grip, but I guess you plan to cut that off later.

Steve G, the bars are longer than they need to be right now, as just a mock up, should be shorter on the real thing, so just held the grips in place for the video. I will be checking out the clearance properly before committing to far.



http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php
Paul, had a look, tried joining, but got stumped on American bike company starting with S.

Ed, thanks for the photos, easy way of making a triple tree, will log that in memory for Another Build. :rolleyes4:

Tradetek
05-22-2014, 01:42 PM
Paul, had a look, tried joining, but got stumped on American bike company starting with S.


Probably "Schwinn"

Bill

go1000go
06-02-2014, 02:02 PM
Ok here we go, back from holiday.

Bars fitted, decided the grip position in front of the knees was not going to work, so photo below shows bars 2" too long at this stage, but as close too final design as you see things
http://s30.postimg.org/cxt7egagx/image.jpg


Came up with this for the rain guard, transition from round to square
http://s30.postimg.org/v5ge4hhxd/image.jpg

Need to work on the aesthetics a bit, but all these angles are a bit of a nightmare.
http://s24.postimg.org/mvyp0fjqd/image.jpg

Strong enough as is and not even welded or bolted together yet but took it for a quick once round the Close. :evilgrin:

Keep looking at it wondering if I can get the bars lower, something does not look/feel right, probably because it has not got the long forks associated with a typical chopper look, but this is Another Chopper, so take from this what you want, I will keep looking a and pondering, but apart from tarting up, I think this is it.

go1000go
06-02-2014, 03:52 PM
Think this is it

http://s1.postimg.org/cecuzhfkf/image.jpg

Tradetek
06-02-2014, 07:30 PM
Looking good. Like the the new handlebars a lot better, and it looks like you just need to fine tune and "tart up" those last bits.

Should turn a lot of heads.

Bill

Wightman
06-03-2014, 04:49 PM
I love this build :cool: so, so cool. Just a question about the motorcycle wheel, what is the sprocket you are using on the actual wheel, and does it free wheel if you stop pedalling? Or does it spin the jack-shaft, and the cassette behave as it would in its conventional position on a wheel?

go1000go
06-03-2014, 05:44 PM
Hi Bill, Wightman

Thanks for the kind comments.

To answer your question Wightman, the wheel has a fixed cog now on the left side of the wheel via a diy adaptor, made from the outer body of a freewheel with the rachet removed then welded to plates that locates on the 5 bolt holes already on the wheel.

http://s8.postimg.org/4h4exj0sl/image.jpg

If necessary I can change the cog size if the gearing is not quite correct.

http://s4.postimg.org/n02oyg9fh/image.jpg

When you stop pedalling the 7 speed freewheel works, so the chain from the other side of the jack shaft to the rear wheel continues to rotate, hence why the plastic guard has been fitted to prevent an accidental trapping of anything in this rotating chain and cog.

Hope this makes sense, will try and post a video of how it all works when I have all the bits finished off.

Wightman
06-04-2014, 01:11 AM
Hi Bill, Wightman

Thanks for the kind comments.

To answer your question Wightman, the wheel has a fixed cog now on the left side of the wheel via a diy adaptor, made from the outer body of a freewheel with the rachet removed then welded to plates that locates on the 5 bolt holes already on the wheel.

http://s8.postimg.org/4h4exj0sl/image.jpg

If necessary I can change the cog size if the gearing is not quite correct.

http://s4.postimg.org/n02oyg9fh/image.jpg

When you stop pedalling the 7 speed freewheel works, so the chain from the other side of the jack shaft to the rear wheel continues to rotate, hence why the plastic guard has been fitted to prevent an accidental trapping of anything in this rotating chain and cog.

Hope this makes sense, will try and post a video of how it all works when I have all the bits finished off.

That is clear as crystal. Brilliance personified, because it is a simple solution to a unique (in cycling terms) problem. I guess that you will be putting that disc brake on t'other side ala the early mock-up earlier in the thread.

go1000go
06-04-2014, 01:42 AM
I guess that you will be putting that disc brake on t'other side ala the early mock-up earlier in the thread.

Yes, although that was no mock up, but my second attempt to make an adaptor. I did not have correct materials, so the result was like a warped record spinning round, so should have a custom built adapter arriving in the next day or so.

Are you thinking of building one?

Wightman
06-04-2014, 03:06 PM
Yes, although that was no mock up, but my second attempt to make an adaptor. I did not have correct materials, so the result was like a warped record spinning round, so should have a custom built adapter arriving in the next day or so.

Are you thinking of building one?

I'm pondering doing likewise to build an e-chopper kinda like http://www.oldjapbikeguy.webspace.virginmedia.com/ElectricStingray.html but not using stingray parts. Nor doing the e-bike wheel but using an electric mid-drive.

go1000go
06-04-2014, 03:38 PM
Yep, saw this one also, looks great clean build and the electric makes it a great proposition.

I was also inspired by Hannan Customs before I started my build.

Have you seen Graucho's electric lo boy chopper?

Wightman
06-05-2014, 01:17 AM
I'd only seen pictures, but have google'd it and have seen the write-up now, so will sit down later and have a good read.....

go1000go
06-05-2014, 01:58 AM
http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php/4352-LoBoy-Fat-Tire-Chopper-Bicycle?highlight=Lo+boy+chopper


Just to make things a bit easier for you

go1000go
06-06-2014, 08:24 AM
http://s23.postimg.org/iarw1815j/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/iarw1815j/)

Arrived today
Time to play



Ed, just giving that poetry thing a go

go1000go
06-07-2014, 10:43 AM
Hi Folks,

Adapter now fitted and brake disc running true and square yippee

http://s30.postimg.org/e3n086hs1/image.jpg

Also managed to get some time on the handlebars

http://s17.postimg.org/cmac3mlhb/image.jpg

Just took this snap also as I was about to pack away for today

http://s10.postimg.org/kcbqrbwyh/image.jpg

Excellent roast lamb now celebrating a birthday for my lovely mother in law.

Is it wine o'clock yet? Oh yes

darnthedog
06-07-2014, 11:57 AM
Looks great with the new handle bars- and now brakes. The next touch I might suggest- a dual leg kick stand like used on Motorcycles and scooters to stand the bike upright when parked. After all a bike of this beauty needs to be displayed not sitting on a side stand. It's really coming along.

HHJJ
06-07-2014, 12:17 PM
Mmmmm, It's really looking good now.

edspedalcars
06-07-2014, 01:11 PM
This is looking so good, Tim

The bars are looking good and IMO, you're staying true to the theme.

I agree with DTD, about the 'center stand' idea.
My old Honda CB750, had a center stand that was (as I remember?),
well tucked away, with only the foot part showing. Just a thought.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSNml-kotaxNl6hKid8AqQ6nfA6YEC6F-5V0VAT_3HzQSDNS1uC

Wondering what you have in mind for the cross brace near the steer tube? Is it there just to hold the bars while welding?

There was Tim,
making rhyme, on a whim.

And here Tim, is quite the notion,
your bike is....poetry in motion.

Wightman
06-07-2014, 02:45 PM
No way to not having a side stand, nothing more sexy than that little bit of leaning stance when parked up. Debate.;)

edspedalcars
06-07-2014, 04:53 PM
No way to not having a side stand, nothing more sexy than that little bit of leaning stance when parked up. Debate.;)

I'm up for a friendly debate.http://forum.atomiczombie.com/images/smilies/smile.gif

I've owned 7 motorcycles, and I'm a chopper design fan. I will agree that 'To Lean, Is Mean'.

However, in this case, I'm thinking it's more like a Camaro I once owned.
My favorite comment, it received was;... "It looks like it's moving, even when it's standing still".

That's what I see in Tim's design.

A build can; ...Lead in design,
A build can; ...Follow in design,
or
A build should; ... just get out of the way!

From my perspective, to this point, this build is definitely leading, in 'it's design'.
To lean it.. is to put it to rest. This bike is not ready to 'rest'.

To make this beast lean,
truly would be mean.

To make the test, to be the best,
nary should this beast, look at rest.

It stands tall and fast,
never ready to be last.

No matter, whether it's side stand, or center stand,
Tim will reveal, what he has planned.

Tim, you have been making wise choices, about your build.
I trust either choice you make will surely look like it belongs there.

go1000go
06-08-2014, 06:06 AM
Hi folks


Looks great with the new handle bars- and now brakes. The next touch I might suggest- a dual leg kick stand like used on Motorcycles and scooters to stand the bike upright when parked. After all a bike of this beauty needs to be displayed not sitting on a side stand. It's really coming along.


Darnthedog you must have been watching me curse as I got ready for the photos, what a pain it was wheeling the bike out, two axle stands, then shut the door, move everything again setting up for the photo.

Yep a stand is a must.

Just been messing around looking at the options,a single leg stand I think leaves too much to chance, the front wheel swung run with a mock up and we all nearly ended up on the floor. That would be mega annoying if it was all finished and painted and that happened. Also given the weight in the back end I am concerned about this falling over on a small child accidentally.

So double leg stand for all the above and for everyone's peace of mind, the only problem is where.

The obvious choice is that it tucks out the way along the rear stays on the inside, but I am concerned they might just poke down and then ruin the look of this area and probably interfere with the disc brake yet to be mounted.

So I am wondering about a telescoping tube that has a tee piece on the end same profile as the rear stays but not as long, that when retracted telescopes in the seat stay.........

edspedalcars
06-08-2014, 08:58 AM
Hi Tim

You must be reading my mind.

I was visualizing a spring loaded 'piston' type stand that you push down with your heal, inside your rear down tube.

It would be sprung to 'pull' itself back into the up position. The tube would lock in the down position via a locking button, like you might find on a umbrella. Or maybe a quick release pin.

The bottom of the stand, would match the bottom profile of your frame, so that when retracted, it would be virtually invisible. It would just look like your frame and, about the only thing showing would be the part for your heal, to push the stand down.

Hope my word picture was understandable. Glad your thinking in the direction your are.

P.S....Because the angle of your frame is not parallel with the ground, the ends of your stand would need adjustable/fixed feet to offset that angle.

go1000go
06-08-2014, 10:50 AM
Hi Ed

Yep pretty sure I get you, probably need to mock something up. Had not thought about the spring return, that is a good idea.

I was thinking of incorporating a spring detent.

Glad you approve of the thought process :)

I was so not wanting the legs to show when retracted.


I noticed a post or so before you ask about the bars, yet to fit a brace, it will be some more square on edge to a vee point, as you suggested, but a whole lot more pondering is required to get it right. What I have found out is cutting the square on edge almost all the way through and take a wedge allows you to bend it really easily, kerfing as you did on one of your bigger tubes, really easily and controllable, going to do this some more.

Some further crazy thinking is a leather handle bar bar possibly, then not going to have a water bottle and lock etc on show. Shame you do not like the little headlight, I have tried mounting it higher up and it looks better, jury still out on all these items.

Not sure what to fit next, brake caliper, handle bars or stand.

Piece of good fortune today, went in my shed to find something, found a really good pair of brake levers that should work for this build.

I still have too many odd bike bits hanging around everywhere, after this build I need to do a massive sort out.


Anyways, loads to do still, really enjoying it and thanks again for everyone's encouragement on changing the handlebars, so much happier with how they now look.

go1000go
06-08-2014, 05:47 PM
Hi folks

A while ago now colour was discussed.

Just for fun, started to play around with a photo in PowerPoint (excel would work the same) and over-layered some colour and possible graphics. AZ logo to go on the rear stays, possible repeat of ANOTHER CHOPPER vertically on the front forks

Quite a way to go finishing other areas, but well here it is, just for a fun...:)

http://s24.postimg.org/4g6i8uhth/image.jpg

edspedalcars
06-09-2014, 09:47 AM
Your color scheme looks great Tim

Something similar on the rear, would look correct.

BUT !, (there's always a 'but' right?).:)

I immediately found (for me), the 'industrial look', was gone.

I remember campaigning for the orange/black combo, but now that I have seen it, I miss the metal look.
Trust me, I didn't like the metal look in the beginning, 'but' it has really grown on me. It just seems to fit what you are doing.

Just to stir the pot a little. Maybe, 'gun metal gray and your graphics still in black or dark gray.

I'm sure what ever the final look is, it will be popular.

In any case, you're inspiring me to get out and work on my own Inferno project, despite a bad knee, swollen foot and 103 degrees, outside.

HHJJ
06-09-2014, 01:37 PM
I'm thinking 'Another Chopper' doesn't do it justice.
It's not just another chopper. It's a unique work of art.
Maybe folks can come up with a title exciting enough to match it?

go1000go
06-09-2014, 01:45 PM
Hi Ed

Sorry to hear about your knee etc, wondering why no recent updates, now we know, speedy recovery.

These bikes have been in my chopper scrap book


http://s10.postimg.org/ltc5mngcl/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/ltc5mngcl/)

http://s17.postimg.org/4xymj6l0r/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4xymj6l0r/)

Colours ???

edspedalcars
06-09-2014, 02:24 PM
The bottom picture looks like it would be a good combination.

BUT ! http://forum.atomiczombie.com/images/smilies/smile.gif as the Inferno is my build, and Another Chopper is your build,
we must take the suggestions and ultimately use what makes, 'US' feel good.

Maybe there will be others, that will want to weigh in, on the subject as well.
You have time to ponder the ideas before laying down paint.

Oh Yeah !, I just came back in from working a bit on my Inferno. (Thanks)
Fashioned a cover, that will go over the front swivel part, of the seat frame.

Now I gotta go find batteries for the camera, so I can keep the picture show going.

DannyC
06-09-2014, 03:27 PM
I know this is probably the wrong thing to suggest, but here goes.....

I think the Industrial and rugged nature of it cries out for a "Mad-Max Beyond Thunderdome" baked-on clear coat to show off the melted-metal brutality of the beast?

Just a thought.

Regards,

Dan.

go1000go
06-09-2014, 04:07 PM
Ed/Danny

Thanks for the suggestions, please keep them coming, goodness know where you thought this up, what word smithing !!

show off the melted-metal brutality of the beast?

Not adverse to this suggestion, massive departure from the white and blue tones I had right at the start, but I think white and blue is on the list of not happening for this build.

Have no fear, loads to do before the paint to be applied, having some great thoughts regarding the stand.

Just watched a program that showcased the VUHL supercar, Another Chopper is not a super car, but some great ideas with the grey tones and orange accents looked fab. Look on google images. There was another with some yellow accents, just some many combinations to consider, but the colour mock up at this stage is for stirring up ideas at this stage, but please keep the suggestions pitching in.

Wightman
06-09-2014, 05:19 PM
I know this is probably the wrong thing to suggest, but here goes.....

I think the Industrial and rugged nature of it cries out for a "Mad-Max Beyond Thunderdome" baked-on clear coat to show off the melted-metal brutality of the beast?

Just a thought.

Regards,

Dan. I love that look also http://www.kustomcoachwerks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3447&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=1065 take a look at the motor here, obviously proud of the work done on the car and wants to show it off (and who can blame him) A decent thread for those interested in such stuff from the first post to last.:punk:

go1000go
06-09-2014, 06:12 PM
So the other day when it was absolutely throwing it down and I had just got the handlebars as they are, I should have gone for a ride to get the patina going more.

Liking the look for the 356 Wightman :)

go1000go
06-13-2014, 04:57 PM
Hi folks

Here is where my thinking is on retracting stand

http://s13.postimg.org/8qvncuqkz/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/8qvncuqkz/)

It will fit as shown by the red added item extending down from the rear downtube

http://s27.postimg.org/7kpaq8p9b/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/7kpaq8p9b/)

This assembly is not complete at the moment, but when finished will fit inside the frame and the spring plunger D will be on the downtube to allow it to be operated.

Here is how it will work.

Sitting on the bike, pull out the spring plunger and the stand will drop to within 75mm of the ground, then with my foot push down on the bar C, then the spring plunger will engage to lock the stand in place. There will be a secondary stop position that can be achieved to allow the rear wheel to be free off the ground, to activate this, stand up and put a foot on bar C and then release the plunger and lift the bike probably about another 25mm and the spring plunger then engages.

To retract the stand, there is a bungee cord inside that withdraws the stand about 75mm from the floor, how to fully retract the stand goes as follows.

Pull out the spring plunger D, the stand springs up about 75mm from the floor, put your foot under the bar C and push up upwards until the spring plunger C re-engages to hold the stand in its home position.

Here is a quick clip of the stand in the fully down position and the effect of releasing the spring plunger to retract the stand, the extended bungee cord retracts, pulling the stand up.


http://youtu.be/0iLm_D77NDA

C is welded to B, this assembly slides with A and this complete unit will be fixed in place underneath with two bolts through B to the frame and held in place via the spring plunger.


I am confident it will work as planned

edspedalcars
06-13-2014, 05:45 PM
Wow ! Tim

You may not have been the winner in the 'What is it ?" thread, http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-sad009.gif
but I think you have a 'winner' here.https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTCJanJ_TQjUJjpLZB8d-fLj83-70aKhqwQLyPF2UxpCdlrkOMoIQ

I can't wait to see that thing, in actual operation.

I had to watch the video a second time, before I caught the 'retraction' happening. Way fast.

Is 'C' going to have the same angled shape and profile as the frame where it meets?
That would make it virtually unnoticeable? Maybe just a small 'heel tab'?

It's pretty neat. I like it http://forum.atomiczombie.com/images/smilies/smile.gif

go1000go
06-13-2014, 06:07 PM
Is 'C' going to have the same angled shape and profile as the frame where it meets?
That would make it virtually unnoticeable? Maybe just a small 'heel tab'?

Hi Ed

Not sure I will need a heel tab or anything that sticks out.
To retract it a swift kick/lift of the foot, the 75mm is not just a guess but height of foot in a shoe plus a bit of clearance.

To set it down, it should fall 140mm from the frame, so again plenty of clearance to get a foot in there.

As for the profile, I need to have a proper look at it, but just holding a piece of 12mm square tube earlier I could not see it unless I got really down low.

The only downside to this is having to cut what I had done before closing off the bottom of the frame, but hey ho that's life, no big issue, just cutting and grinding.

go1000go
06-14-2014, 10:25 AM
Hi folks

Just been looking back through the thread and realised it was 18 May when the handlebar issues were raised by you all, thanks again, these ones look so much better and the steel for them cost only 9

Sorry if the posts have moved around a bit from paint to stands, and now back to the handlebars again.


Having spent a couple of hours this morning carrying out the latest modifications, I think I am almost there now. For the very eagle eyed amongst you, you will spot the card panel that needs to be made into a permanent cover in steel.

http://s16.postimg.org/ozab884xh/image.jpg

http://s29.postimg.org/a7n393ltz/image.jpg

DannyC
06-14-2014, 12:43 PM
That looks first rate Tim, I bet you are pleased with the result.

Regards,

Dan.

Ticktock
06-14-2014, 07:28 PM
Hi Tim,
That looks great now--much more in line with the "square" theme !
My bifocals must have ceased to focus--can't see the card cover---is that the next completion? spot the cover?
Steve G

edspedalcars
06-14-2014, 08:35 PM
Hi folks

Just been looking back through the thread and realised it was 18 May when the handlebar issues were raised by you all, thanks again, these ones look so much better and the steel for them cost only 9

Sorry if the posts have moved around a bit from paint to stands, and now back to the handlebars again.

For the very eagle eyed amongst you, you will spot the card panel that needs to be made into a permanent cover in steel.




Hi Tim,
That looks great now--much more in line with the "square" theme !
My bifocals must have ceased to focus--can't see the card cover---is that the next completion? spot the cover?
Steve G

Hi Tim

Like the 'V' addition. Another 'Swoosh Master' in the making?. (Inferno build # 645)
I can't give up the title you bestowed on me, now can I ?

Not to worry about sequencing. If You build it, we'll just watch it.

Steve, I think Tim is starting his own search game, called, 'Where Is It?'

I'm not sure where he's put it either. My guess is just behind the cross bar in the lower picture. (Just a sliver showing)

go1000go
06-15-2014, 03:46 AM
Hi folks

First things first, thanks again for the kind comments.
Yes I am truly pleased with the corrected bars.


Steve, I think Tim is starting his own search game, called, 'Where Is It?'

I'm not sure where he's put it either. My guess is just behind the cross bar in the lower picture. (Just a sliver showing)

I did say it was for the eagle eyed, and yes Ed you got it


http://s3.postimg.org/6ba6kwiwz/image.jpg

Had another look last night and rather than a cover that is removable it will be fitted to the handlebar stem, and achieve the same result.


This working with square on edge is really great, probably better than working with it flat, Thanks Brad as I first saw it on your Vigilante Choppe

go1000go
06-17-2014, 04:13 PM
Stand worked out as planned.

Serviceable should the bungee break, two bolts and back off the plunger.


http://youtu.be/awJ0x7C6YgA

edspedalcars
06-17-2014, 04:32 PM
Well Done Tim

Brought a smile to my face, just watching it work.

Love it, when a thought/plan comes to fruition.

Like the 'zoom' effects too ! http://forum.atomiczombie.com/images/smilies/smile.gif

Tradetek
06-18-2014, 12:42 AM
Nice job. Always like an innovation that does not detract from the bigger picture

darnthedog
06-18-2014, 01:12 AM
Nice Job, I agree with Ed. And thank for the Video view of the operation.

go1000go
06-18-2014, 04:09 PM
Wow, thanks for all the great comments.
I was most pleased with the result.

If a list of outstanding jobs were to be drawn up, it would not be a long one now.

Fit capping bits, fit rear brake calliper, final bit of adjusting to jack shaft, Then stop, Colour time, whoa whoa, Can't touch it, Then stop, Assembly time

hiyawathen
06-19-2014, 12:18 AM
That is a sweet looking ride!! I think dark steel from the metallic rustoleum series would look great on this bike (if you're still taking suggestions for colors)

Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk

FrankCrank
06-19-2014, 12:45 AM
...very clever stand Tim, and good demo on the vid. Over this way they use small motorbikes for hauling ridiculous loads, they have a rear rack with a telescoping stands either side to keep it steady for loading and unloading. Reckon they can move house using just this alone :)

go1000go
06-19-2014, 02:17 AM
thanks Frank



That is a sweet looking ride!! I think dark steel from the metallic rustoleum series would look great on this bike (if you're still taking suggestions for colors)

Hi Hiyawathen,
Yes always open to suggestions, only this way do we improve and I certainly cannot claim to have an eye for colour, so welcome suggestions. I will be mocking up a few more coloured in photos before a final choice on colour. You might have seen

Asking around, it appears I can either get it power coated at a special rate or even painted with a two pack for about 50, so my range of choice appears to be wide wide open. That said I am thinking probably a single colour for powder coat route, otherwise I will not get the special rate, then add vinyl to spice things up a bit.

My only concern is getting the job is done right, there are a number of features that could easily be messed up if filled with baked in powder coat of two pack paint, so some careful thinking about the route and the colour.

DannyC
06-19-2014, 05:14 AM
Hi Tim,

Loving that stand! What a clever solution.

If the powder-coater is worth his salt he will be careful to stop-up anything you tell him is clearance-sensitive.
They are equipped with silicone bungs to stop up threaded areas (like bottom-brackets for example) and they cover things like brake bosses in heat-proof tape.

But, there will always be that close-fitting and "lovingly-made" part that you slaved over that may get missed unless you tell the guy to specifically avoid it.
It is the nature of the thermosetting paint process I'm afraid. Its job is to get everywhere and it is very good at doing just that.

Having said that, I think powder-coating is the very best finish possible, and my 49 year old Moulton Series 1 in Silver-Chrome and Gloss-Black still looks in showroom condition.

Whatever you choose will be just right for you, so enjoy.

Regards,

Dan.

graucho
06-19-2014, 09:24 AM
Great ride Tim! Great bike stand~! I posted your stand link on my worldwide Facebook group so we might see your stand popping up everywhere.

https://www.facebook.com/grauchos.bicycles

go1000go
06-20-2014, 02:19 AM
Hi Dan,

Mmmmmmm that has me really hooked, yet it is that question over masking and clearances when the coating is applied, little voices saying go for it, on one side, then the worry wort saying you would be crazy on the other side.

Simple solution, finish it then list out the concerns and see how difficult it will be to mask them all.




Great ride Tim! Great bike stand~! I posted your stand link on my worldwide Facebook group so we might see your stand popping up everywhere.

https://www.facebook.com/grauchos.bicycles


Hi Graucho, thanks for that, no way I can patent it now, tee hee :surprised: not that I was considering it, let the ideas flow and as we copy one-another - I mean innovate (smart word for copy and improve and tweak) we go on improving all our rides.

go1000go
06-20-2014, 11:40 AM
The sun was shining and I have now finished the handle bars, even managed to work out what to do with the brake cables that should look ace, any guesses folks.

Anyway could not resist sharing these in the sun shots

http://s30.postimg.org/ouklv3335/image.jpg

http://s11.postimg.org/6lw9d2fz7/image.jpg

Enjoy

DannyC
06-20-2014, 12:12 PM
I would be tempted to try to hide the brake cables inside the handlebar tubes entering the tube near the grips and exiting near the top of the forks.

I have seen something similar done to great effect on an F-Frame Moulton where the rear brake & gear select cables ran inside the main tube. It looked fabulous.

It is looking really good Tim.

edspedalcars
06-20-2014, 12:22 PM
The sun was shining and I have now finished the handlebars, even managed to work out what to do with the brake cables that should look ace, any guesses folks.

Anyway could not resist sharing these in the sun shots


Enjoy

The sun always brings out the best in everything. That 'shiny', sparkling, metal just looks so nice.

I know you said, "even managed to work out what to do with the brake cables that should look ace, any guesses folks".

You are probably going to run your cables down through the handlebars, A very logical, and often used method.

My one good eye,http://forum.atomiczombie.com/images/smilies/1eye.gif, spies this, out of the box, not so often used, 'original-ish', idea for you. Sort of a 'girder' look to it.

Using steel tubing that is either tack welded, (with 1/4 " standoffs), or some other attaching method, to run your cables through.
This would add some more interesting 'detail' to your already cool look.

Depending on your final color choice, the tubing could be copper, blinged out nice and shiny. Nice contrasting look.
Though small diameter copper tubing is soft, so it may be hard to get a nice straight tube, where steel tubing painted copper or other contrasting color may be a better choice.

Anyway, something to think about.

http://s28.postimg.org/av2lb1ond/Tims_Cable_route.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/av2lb1ond/)

go1000go
06-20-2014, 02:02 PM
Ed and Danny

Ok I can see why you both suggested the brake cables would go through the handle bar tubes, as I think I mentioned this a while ago...... but no change of plan there is "Another" way.

Now the rear brake will run through the main frame, got a hole in the bottom and sorted of drenched in type of thing going on at the head tube for entry into the frame, with a bit of silicon to seal it in.


My one good eye,, spies this, out of the box, not so often used, 'original-ish', idea for you. Sort of a 'girder' look to it.

Using steel tubing that is either tack welded, (with 1/4 " standoffs), or some other attaching method, to run your cables through.
This would add some more interesting 'detail' to your already cool look.

Depending on your final color choice, the tubing could be copper, blinged out nice and shiny. Nice contrasting look.
Though small diameter copper tubing is soft, so it may be hard to get a nice straight tube, where steel tubing painted copper or other contrasting color may be a better choice.


Oh while I remember, question how do you get the quote to state the original author ?

So at this time you are both sort of correct, the cables will go through the frame, Danny.

Ed, yep "Original-ish" is a really good way to express what will happen, I cannot claim this as a new idea, but where I am using it might well be.

Like I say I think it will look ace.

Keep guessing, if you wish, if not just wait till the final reveal, :scholar: unless someone guesses right in the mean time then all will be revealed.

edspedalcars
06-20-2014, 05:26 PM
Oh while I remember, question how do you get the quote to state the original author ?[/COLOR]



Tim

If I understand what your asking, then; not sure how others are doing it, but I have to 'right click' on 'Reply with Quote'. I select ''Open Link in new Tab'.
You must keep the
and brackets.

I do it this way so I'm on a different 'tab', in case I want go back and forth between posts.
You can remove any part of the quote, by highlighting and selecting delete.

Example this post, where I deleted everything but your question. Sometimes I have just highlighted a particular text and used 'copy' and 'paste' for that alone.

Still pondering your cable routing idea, http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-think005.gif

Tradetek
06-20-2014, 11:52 PM
Very very nice look really glad it came out as well as it did I think you're really going to be happy with that in the long run

As for the brake cables I'm still thinking about that one but I'm wondering if the word Ace has something of a hint to it

Bill

go1000go
06-22-2014, 05:39 AM
Very very nice look really glad it came out as well as it did I think you're really going to be happy with that in the long run

As for the brake cables I'm still thinking about that one but I'm wondering if the word Ace has something of a hint to it

Bill

Sorry Bill, no clue in the word Ace :P
Yep very happy with the bars now, so thanks to all the suggestions, without the squar into round, not sure how quick I would have found the solution.

Thanks Ed, another step further into social media, now got the author included bit.

hiyawathen
06-22-2014, 11:20 AM
Frame mounted cable stops would be cool (in keeping with the raw look...the stops would introduce bare metal wire along the frame lines). Of course, only a suggestion. No matter what you come up with, this bike rocks!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

edspedalcars
06-22-2014, 12:02 PM
Now the rear brake will run through the main frame, got a hole in the bottom and sorted of drenched in type of thing going on at the head tube for entry into the frame, with a bit of silicon to seal it in.




I think your idea is 'all wet' Tim, and it's going to rust, using the above mentioned method..(drenched in type of thing) http://forum.atomiczombie.com/images/smilies/cheesy.gif

My thought for the rear brake is, you are running your cable inside the handlebar, exiting out the bottom end, looping the cable back into the headtube. You are 'Frenching in' the front entry hole, into the head tube, down the inside of the 'front down tube', turning at the intersection of, the front down tube and bottom tube, continuing rearward inside the bottom tube, and exiting at the 'Y' intersection, finishing at the rear brake.

No cables showing along the frame, nor showing in or around the seat area. Cables exit, underneath, on the same, 'plane' as the brake.

For the front brake you will be running the cable inside the other side handlebar, exiting at the bottom end, same as the rear cable route. The 'loop' will be tied/attached/bracketed, in some manner to the rear cable, so as to maintain symmetry. It will then, hook to the front brake in a normal fashion.

OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT ???

P.S. The silicone seal may work loose, with constant movement of the cable. Maybe a rubber grommet, would be a choice to consider, as thats what they are used for.

go1000go
06-22-2014, 01:59 PM
I think your idea is 'all wet' Tim, and it's going to rust, using the above mentioned method..(drenched in type of thing) http://forum.atomiczombie.com/images/smilies/cheesy.gif

My thought......You are 'Frenching in' the front entry hole, into the head tube, down the inside of the 'front down tube', turning at the intersection of, the front down tube and bottom tube, continuing rearward inside the bottom tube, and exiting at the 'Y' intersection, finishing at the rear brake.

Cables exit, underneath, on the same, 'plane' as the brake.

......

P.S. The silicone seal may work loose, with constant movement of the cable. Maybe a rubber grommet, would be a choice to consider, as thats what they are used for.


Ed thanks, how not seen my own correcto, like a typeo, but it is when the words are typed correct then O they change in front of your eyes :rolleyes4:

Now as for what you say in the edited quote above 100% on the money, yep you got it right.

But as to the cable running Inside the handlebars, sorry, no incorrect.

Also was not aware of the silicone issue, so thanks for that, I will use a rubber grommet.

There are a couple of clues, one posted recently and another a while ago.

As I say just for fun.

go1000go
06-22-2014, 02:06 PM
Frame mounted cable stops would be cool (in keeping with the raw look...the stops would introduce bare metal wire along the frame lines). Of course, only a suggestion. No matter what you come up with, this bike rocks!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Hiyawathen

Thanks for joining in, really like that idea, that had not entered my head that one.
I would go for it, however every time I try for small neat welds on detail items, they become massive welds that destroy the small details. Like the thinking very much, it is great that ideas come up like this, so thanks again, but.............


Sorry incorrect.

By the way what is your current build?

hiyawathen
06-22-2014, 02:21 PM
Hi Tim,

Building a pair of Timberwolves. Planning something a little different for the seats, that will be the only real deviation from Brad's plans. Enough about me though, back to your thread!!

Dave


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

go1000go
06-23-2014, 02:10 PM
Ok folks here is the list

1. Square section with tight fit for rear spindle for rear wheel.
2. M5 and M6 weld nuts for retracting stand, do not own an M5 tap currently
3. Head tube where bearing caps fit.
4. Frenched hole for rear brake cable
5. Bottom bracket
6. Two brackets for trigger shifters, each has 4off 3mm holes for dowels
7. Holes for nutserts not yet drilled
8. Welded on pulley wheel for gear cable


I could live with sorting out powder coat in 2, 3, 4, 7 and sort them out just about, the other three would be more tricky to resolve, so given it was a very good price, the saying goes something like

"If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is" also what if they get the wrong colour!

I have been subject to great offers in the past and well some work out, some do not and I am not prepared to suffer should someone else mess up.

So I have purchased some rattle cans of "MID SERENADE", got very close to buying "MIDNIGHT RENDEZVOUS" which is a similar shade to the rear wheel, but thought better of it.
Who the flipping heck thinks up these names of paint and more importantly thinks we understand what the heck they are trying to convey, even more amusing is that the sticker was really small took me ages to see it, just wanted to check the batch code was the same one.

Anyway for those of you not up on your paint names "MID SERENADE" is shiny dark grey to me.

http://s30.postimg.org/cntbk2yyp/image.jpg

Not sure whether the rear wheel stays in its current colour, probably will, and the handlebars, again, would like them to be the same grey, but maybe black, depends how the paint looks as it drys on the main frame.

One would be given to thinking I could paint this soon, but still have to mount the rear calliper and fit a couple of other small bits, but then time to strip down and grind any last ugly bits.

So then friends this is probably one of the last few posts of this thread, unless anyone manages to guess the brake cable handle bar solution, there is another clue in this post today.

go1000go
07-11-2014, 04:40 PM
Hi Folks,

Would anybody like to see how the cables ended up on the handle bars?


Still some way off paint, smooth finish for the grey paint desired

HHJJ
07-11-2014, 05:44 PM
Hi Folks,

Would anybody like to see how the cables ended up on the handle bars?



Silly question...of course we would!

edspedalcars
07-11-2014, 05:47 PM
Well YEAH !!, You need to ask ????

Show Me !, Show Me!, Show Me! http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-excited001.gif

go1000go
07-11-2014, 06:24 PM
Well YEAH !!, You need to ask ????

Show Me !, Show Me!, Show Me! http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-excited001.gif


Silly question...of course we would!

Ok seeing as how you two have broken cover, here is what I have done.

http://s27.postimg.org/usemimq37/image.jpg

You might remember the P: to Tradetek, perhaps the clue was too subtle

http://s28.postimg.org/r0pw516bx/image.jpg

Ta da

Tradetek
07-11-2014, 07:17 PM
Nice and clean. I like it :p

edspedalcars
07-11-2014, 10:39 PM
Had me fooled. You went in a different direction, than I thought you were going too.

But !..Still...." Nice, Very Nice "!....http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-fc/cool.gif

Looks like you've been cleaning up some welds. The handlebars look nice there near the top.

DannyC
07-12-2014, 06:31 AM
Lovely job!

It sure looks nice. When's painting time?

go1000go
07-12-2014, 08:50 AM
Thank you all, so glad I changed the handlebars now.

Painting time happens after smoothing time, and now got the new toy to play with, hope it works as well as I hope it will.

Never a rush build this one, just enjoying the process, however would like to get it painted perhaps in the next couple of weeks.

Tradetek
07-12-2014, 09:31 AM
Are any of the "files" padded? I know that my wife uses padded emery boards for her nails and they are really nice for sanding corners... (don't tell my wife) :D

HHJJ
07-12-2014, 10:37 AM
Mmmm, it makes for good path for the cables the shape you have made the handlebars.

hiyawathen
07-12-2014, 11:22 PM
Nice work on the cable management system!! Gives it a neat professional look.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

go1000go
07-27-2014, 07:08 AM
Wet and dry day
Then spray


http://s30.postimg.org/3uzhu2s69/image.jpg


Why upside down, because...... Postimage

go1000go
07-27-2014, 01:13 PM
Primed and painted in the sun. :). Now in its glourious final colour

http://s28.postimg.org/lvs66d7r1/image.jpg

Tradetek
07-27-2014, 05:34 PM
Changed your mind on the orange and black huh? So will there be any other colors on top of the base, or is this final? And what color is it?

Bill

go1000go
07-27-2014, 06:14 PM
Changed your mind on the orange and black huh? So will there be any other colors on top of the base, or is this final? And what color is it?

Bill


Hi Bill #172 saw the colour featured "MID SERENADE" sort of a grey with a hint of blue.

As to other colours, yet to be defined.

FrankCrank
07-27-2014, 07:58 PM
.....looks surreal just hanging there mid-air......gonna look real cool when assembled again :).

flat
07-27-2014, 10:26 PM
Better get it down before your wife claims it as an artistic yard ornament. :taz:

BTW, great build, and can't wait to see it back together with you riding it.

go1000go
07-30-2014, 02:32 PM
Better get it down before your wife claims it as an artistic yard ornament. :taz:

BTW, great build, and can't wait to see it back together with you riding it.


Little do you know, she was lying in the sun whilst I sprayed it.

go1000go
07-30-2014, 02:34 PM
The result of a couple of evenings effort.

http://s29.postimg.org/u6mpm7lon/image.jpg

Tradetek
07-30-2014, 02:51 PM
Little do you know, she was lying in the sun whilst I sprayed it.

So what color did she end up :rolleyes4:

Bill

edspedalcars
07-30-2014, 03:03 PM
The result of a couple of evenings effort.

http://s29.postimg.org/u6mpm7lon/image.jpg

Love the 'details', Tim. The anticipation meter, is about ready to blow it's lid.

flat
07-30-2014, 05:35 PM
Are your rims powder-coated?

Is it kosher for AZ-ians to spray Rustoleom on ALU rims? Was told ALU presents adhesion issues.

But it sure looks nice, Tim! Love the two-tone accenting. :cool4:

go1000go
07-31-2014, 01:14 AM
Are your rims powder-coated?

Is it kosher for AZ-ians to spray Rustoleom on ALU rims? Was told ALU presents adhesion issues.

But it sure looks nice, Tim! Love the two-tone accenting. :cool4:


Hi Flat

They were powder coated I am pretty sure, anyway I sanded them lightly to produce a key, primed, sprayed colour, then clear.
If it works then great, if not then such is life, cannot see why it would not work. Too late now. :)

Ed, thanks for the comment.

Bill, a lighter shade of ..

flat
07-31-2014, 09:52 AM
Hi Flat

They were powder coated I am pretty sure, anyway I sanded them lightly to produce a key, primed, sprayed colour, then clear.
If it works then great, if not then such is life, cannot see why it would not work. Too late now. :)
..
I was hoping you sprayed them, because my used rims are scratched and I wanted a cover up. Powder coating, DIY, is a several hundred dollar startup project. Another project in itself. :thinking: I might just leave them alone.

edspedalcars
07-31-2014, 10:55 AM
Are your rims powder-coated?

Is it kosher for AZ-ians to spray Rustoleom on ALU rims? Was told ALU presents adhesion issues.

But it sure looks nice, Tim! Love the two-tone accenting. :cool4:

Flat

You might try this. My tri-wheels for the T bucket are painted with it.
You can get it most anywhere they sell spray paints.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-High-Performance-Wheel-Flat-Black/17249826 (Reference only, not flat black color)

I did this back a couple of years ago, and I honestly can't remember if I used a primer or not.
Nowadays I would, as recommended on the can.

This color looks nice in the bright sun. In fact I would be tempted to paint an entire bike with it.

http://s28.postimg.org/f2kihbjt9/001.jpg http://s28.postimg.org/pdwv9zbil/new_wheel_1_003.jpg

flat
07-31-2014, 03:14 PM
Thanks for the tip, Ed. It looks like the old adage about painting ALU may have been solved. (and it looks good). But...

... Ed, dang it, 3 rims??? Really? That's unbelievably awesome.

Wightman
08-01-2014, 01:11 AM
Flat

You might try this. My tri-wheels for the T bucket are painted with it.
You can get it most anywhere they sell spray paints.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-High-Performance-Wheel-Flat-Black/17249826 (Reference only, not flat black color)

I did this back a couple of years ago, and I honestly can't remember if I used a primer or not.
Nowadays I would, as recommended on the can.

This color looks nice in the bright sun. In fact I would be tempted to paint an entire bike with it.

http://s28.postimg.org/f2kihbjt9/001.jpg http://s28.postimg.org/pdwv9zbil/new_wheel_1_003.jpg

WOW that is nice, would love to know how you did that

go1000go
08-01-2014, 05:42 AM
Love the 'details', Tim. The anticipation meter, is about ready to blow it's lid.

Well just to take your meter to maximum level, everything is now scheduled for tomorrow with the assembly, the decals just arrived in the post today. :evilgrin:

Oh and the bad news is rain is forecast here for tomorrow, so when built, not sure I can get a good photo....

I will build it then see what the weather is doing, as Emma says "it can't rain all the time"

go1000go
08-02-2014, 09:39 AM
http://s18.postimg.org/ms03kg36h/DSC_1458.jpg

http://s29.postimg.org/4t6g0vp3b/DSC_1456.jpg

http://s7.postimg.org/tb48xs4wb/DSC_1455.jpg

http://s29.postimg.org/dzxxfn93b/DSC_1464.jpg

http://s8.postimg.org/bmnt0bgwl/DSC_1465.jpg




Thanks for all contributions for everyone towards this year long build.

Happy with the final result, the pinstripes may have to be painted on, but a minor point in the whole scheme of things. :) :) :)

HHJJ
08-02-2014, 09:45 AM
Corrr Loverley!
You'll have to find somewhere good to take it out and show it off (when the rain stops)

edspedalcars
08-02-2014, 10:51 AM
FINALLY !!!! WOW !!! http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/hand-gestures/bravo-clapping-smiley-emoticon.gif

Tim, you have to be beaming with pride.

Bringing to life, a thought, a concept, a dream, a vision, is not always fully understood by many.
The mental process alone, often takes more effort, than the physical creation.

She's a beauty.

A big http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/yes/two-thumbs-up-smiley-emoticon.gif

What's next? http://forum.atomiczombie.com/images/smilies/smile.gif

Twinkle
08-02-2014, 11:57 AM
Nice Tim

Motor accessory shops have pre cut pinstripes in 3mm 4mm and 6 mm or maybe ebay?

regards emma

darnthedog
08-02-2014, 02:55 PM
Very Cool:cheesy:

flat
08-02-2014, 03:22 PM
Fantastic work, and a feast for the eyes! The diamond framework and color really grows on me.

hiyawathen
08-02-2014, 04:40 PM
Way to go! Have a blast....it's gonna blow people's minds when you go rolling down the street!!

FrankCrank
08-02-2014, 08:13 PM
...+1 to what they said - most definitely an inspired build and well executed, now get out on it and enjoy the rest of the summer :) .....

Tradetek
08-03-2014, 06:34 AM
Love it. Nice unique ride that should turn a lot of heads.

Now it's time to reap the rewards...

And like what Ed said... what's next? ;)

Bill

go1000go
08-03-2014, 02:00 PM
Love it. Nice unique ride that should turn a lot of heads.

Now it's time to reap the rewards...

And like what Ed said... what's next? ;)

Bill


Thanks for all the great comments.

what's next, what's next, cor no break is there or what......



well Bill I came up with a plan for those discarded round handle bars from this build, check out "Kick a BMX" thread soon to appear as a new post.

Again thanks folks

go1000go
11-09-2014, 02:04 PM
Brief update for you all.

I had a small gremlin in the drive system, in that when freewheeling the chain to the back wheel would sometimes throw itself off, this was because the sprocket was from a freewheel with those helpful notches to allow it to change easily.

Anyway got a better sprocket and after some filing got it to fit.

Despite it being dark here I fitted some lights and took it for a fast test blast and despite plenty of fast freewheeling the chain never came off - success yippeeeeeeeee. :evilgrin: