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Idris
07-01-2012, 01:12 PM
As I've complained before the roads in my neck of the woods are awful and my junk built Spirit SWB just didn't cut the mustard, or rather it was painful to ride.

Attempt 2. Sticking as close as I can to the High Roller plans but with full suspension - the front, easy just add a suspension fork, the rear, I'm following the Voyager plans more or less.

First mock up, suspension swivel welded in place but everything else just clamped and or balanced.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8155/7480201424_a2dbf7896f_b.jpg

All angles and lengths now calculated.... sort of.

TexasTuff
07-01-2012, 01:49 PM
My son and I built a Voyageur and it was a very smooth ride. I don't see why this should not work as well.

David_s
07-01-2012, 03:26 PM
Save the crank that came with that rear triangle. What we did was have the chain go to a pulley that pulled the chain line down under the seat, but then to get back over the rear chain stays we put the cheap 1 piece cranks and put them back on the rear triangle. cut off all but the smallest chainring and the arms. Make sense?

Idris
07-02-2012, 03:01 PM
Save the crank that came with that rear triangle. What we did was have the chain go to a pulley that pulled the chain line down under the seat, but then to get back over the rear chain stays we put the cheap 1 piece cranks and put them back on the rear triangle. cut off all but the smallest chainring and the arms. Make sense?

Yup, I think I follow, using the BB in it's original place (this one was shot so another will go in it's place) along with small chainwheel, pushed over a little to be in line with the middle chainwheel location.

All tack welded together.


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7128/7480202628_b7f53c3db4_b.jpg

It's now all welded up, thought I'd just grab the handlebars from my SpiritSWB, found these full size forks have a 1" steerer tube, while the kids 20" forks on my Spirit are 1 1/4", time to make another set of risers. Also have to make the sliding BB and seat tabs.

Only a little more work before test ride.

Idris
07-10-2012, 03:48 PM
First ride today - re welded my handlebars, will probably cut me in half and change em again tomorrow. Sorry no pics today.

Broke a part I wasn't expecting to brake, partly because I thought it was overkill and partly because I cut it off my SpirtSWB attempt.
I broke my BMX freewheel idler, or rather badly bent the bracket that holds it. Didn't think there would be quite so much pull against it.
Will gusset the bracket and cut the BB chainwheel idler from monster to minor cog to reduce the angle. The BB based idler lines up with the Monster cog in the middle of the rear cluster at the moment, the minor gear is hard up against the BB so unusable at the moment.

Idris
07-21-2012, 02:01 PM
Got a few miles on it now

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8025/7616473482_815337e50f_b.jpg

Need to change a few things,

First rear drop outs, the axle bolts are currently wire tied to stop them sliding forward. Going to chop some drop "outs" off another frame to replace the drop "forwards" that are causing the problem, will also add a screw on derailier while I'm at it, the plastic one is nasty.

I am going to realign the rear shock and move the seat back as far as I can, I'm not having any pedal strike issues, even if I when back a foot. I want to reduce the standover height and move the COG backwards, this does both.



I'm also thinking of dropping the front boom angle a la tomahawk as far as I can to reduce the relative seat to pedal angle, is that or change the seat angle and raise the handlebars (when I move the seat back I will have knee clearance issues).

I have lots of other small stuff to do as well.

darnthedog
07-21-2012, 05:27 PM
Just a thought.
Mount your bottom bracket Upside down from where it is now so that it is mounted under the boom. Might have to get a little creative with the deraileur but it would save the welding the proper angle and maybe get you on the road sooner.

I am not sure of your riding conditions but I never move the front deraileur from the large gear on my regular bike. So if it were me I'd go without the deraileur on the BB. But as I said this is only a thought and it is completely up to you.
Also it is a great looking bike so far.

Radical Brad
07-21-2012, 05:27 PM
Looks like a smooth ride, thanks for the pics!

Brad

Idris
08-12-2012, 05:41 AM
Nearly done

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8289/7764498630_1907329baa_b.jpg

Seat post and seat moved back, suspension re aligned. Drop outs replaced with proper ones, deraileur bracket welded on. Front boom cranked down.

Cranking the front boom down went very easy until I had to weld the four side, blew a hole in it welding the seam, due to impatience took me 4 welding rods and numerous bits of scrap before the hole was filed.

Rides loads better, mainly due to dropping the pedal height vs seat, don't get all creased up peddling anymore.

Still have to put a chain keeper on my idlers and build a return idler, all my bits of hosepipe are to narrow and stiff to work smoothly.
Trying to avoid having to reweld my deraileur post by I am getting contact with the deraileur arm on the small cog due to the angle change from moving the boom.

Darnthedog I have got a pretty broad range of gears on my chainset but where I live they are insufficient - I live in Chamonix in the french alps a 1000ft change in elevation can be found heading round the corner to the store ;), so no chance of going with one chainwheel upfront - not with scavenged components anyhow.