View Full Version : Welding Wheel Lugs onto frame.

05-20-2012, 01:28 PM
The frame is 2.5mm (best I could do) But the lugs for the wheel are 6mm. Any hints and tips on welding these on?
I have a pico 140 dc invertor.
I have 2.5mm or 3.25mm rods.
For building the frame I've been using the 2.5mm at about 80amps.

I can get a decent bead down on flat 2.5mm, such that the slag just pops off.
Still working on improving my T welds in general, but they pass the Car Jack Test. (Make up a U shape & try to bust it with a car jack, if it bends, your weld is passable)

But back to the point, I think I need to use 3.25mm rods (~110amps), and focus most of the heat on the Lug? Or can I just use the 2.5mm rods (80amps? or bump it up for the T joint?)

In general, do I need more amps for a T joint?



05-21-2012, 08:24 AM
As it happened, I had a chance to go play last night. So I cut a load of "lugs" to practice welding.

2.5mm rods, ~100 amps (DC), and going slowly, zig zagging, worked well.

I found with T joints, the puddle seems to try to get ahead of the rod, so I ended up leaning the rod back further to push the puddle away from me.

I also learned that 60 amps is low enough to weld over a cut made by a 1.2mm zip wheel. At 80 amps, I was just burning the edges back.

I even managed to have the slag just pop off some of the welds (I believe that's a good thing)

I got good enough results that I went ahead and welded the real lugs. They turned out OK. No marks for artistic interpretation, but solid.


05-24-2012, 07:32 AM
More results.

I now have a broomstick :)

I found that I needed more amps to weld Tee Joints, and less amps to weld where there are gaps.
I guess the Tee Joints allow mean more metal to heat, and more chance for the heat be conducted away.

Also, I now keep a piece of scrap handy. If the rod sticks, I then strike an arc on the scrap, and let it burn about 1/4 inch of rod. The reason for this is that after breaking off the stuck rod, the flux coating is damaged near the tip of the rod. Burning back the 1/4 inch means a much cleaner start to the weld. Without this, I often found big inclusions, I think these were simply bits of flux that broke off and dropped into the weld puddle.

By the time I'm finished, I may even be able to weld. :rolleyes4: