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View Full Version : Making 'em "The Kid" style... (all hail to The Kid!)



SirJoey
05-08-2008, 04:36 PM
Thanx for posting this method, Kid. Picked up the 2 1/4" hole saw yesterday. Used it to punch 'em out today, then used my 3/4" step drill (bought last year, another of your suggestions), for the I.D. Got 'em blanked out & deburred today. It was slow going, but I finally worried my way through 'em.

Still have to have 'em surface ground, though. They're about .030 too thick. Have to wait till next Tuesday to get that done. :(

http://joeywallace.spaces.live.com/photos/cns!9D0D4DF6F50AAFC2!1684/?&_c02_vws=1

TheKid
05-08-2008, 06:00 PM
Instead of using 1/8" steel plate or flat bar, you could use 3" square 14ga. steel tubing. It's .083" thick, which should work quite well for flanges. Now onto the disc/freewheel adapter, for 3/4" axles. (It will work with 5/8" axles, but centering the BB cup that will be the freewheel adapter will be a bit difficult.)
Do you remember how to make the disc brake adapter? Put a brake disk on a piece of 2 1/2" - 3" 3/16" steel if you use nuts and bolts to secure the disc, or 1/4" steel if you want to thread the disc. Make sure the disc is centered. Mark all six bolt holes on the steel. Remove the disc, and connect the marks for the bolts together, making sure you connect the marks that are opposite each other. Where they connect is the center. Drill the bolt holes first. They are 5mm if you use nuts and bolts, but I'm not sure of the drill size if you want to thread them. I bought drill and tap sets from a local Pep Boys. They come in both metric and standard sizes. Tap the holes for the bolts. After the bolt holes are drilled, and/or tapped, use a 2 1/2" hole saw to punch it out, making sure it's dead center. Drill the center out to 3/4". Next get a LEFT SIDE BB cup, the one with the right handed threads, that happen to be the same threads as a freewheel. The hole is usually 11/16", so take your step drill and drill it out to 3/4". Screw it into a BB so you could grind it flat, but don't screw it in too tight. Use the lock ring to keep it in place. Now place the adapter on a 3/4" bolt. Place a shaft collar on the bolt. Slide the disc adapter on. take a 3/8"-1/2" length of tubing of that will fit over the bolt. (The spacers for the wheels will work for thid). Slide the BB on the bolt with the hollow end toward the threads. Place a 3/4" washer over the bolt, and thread on a nut. Slide the whole assembly tight against the washer, and secure the collar to the bolt. Now tighten the nut. Get some tape and wrap it around the threads of the BB cup. weld the disc adapter to the spacer and the BB cup. There's your disc brake/freewheel adapter.

SirJoey
05-08-2008, 07:16 PM
I also have these finished: http://joeywallace.spaces.live.com/photos/cns!9D0D4DF6F50AAFC2!1326/

I was gonna clamp these up against my freewheel adapters, using a 3/4" bolt, & weld 'em together. Seems like it would come out very similar to the one-piece machined part in the plans. I'll do a mock-up tomorrow, if I have a 3/4" bolt & nut to work with...

Or maybe I should just weld these things to shaft collars, & keep 'em seperate from the freewheel adapters...

TheKid
05-08-2008, 07:23 PM
I forgot you already had the freewheel adapters. That's exactly what I'm doing on the hauler. If I ever use a 3/4" axle, I'll go the other route. I left out the step where you weld a short length of pipe and drill and tap 2 holes to secure it to the axle.
BTW, The flanges look good. Are they really too thick? I thought 1/8" was OK to use. Also, thanks for showing that this method works. I came up with it a long time ago, but I haven't actually made any flanges yet.

SirJoey
05-08-2008, 07:34 PM
Yeah, it's .030 thicker than the original hub flanges.

The flat bar steel is actually .145 thick, & the original hub flanges are just under nominal size, at .115. I'm pretty sure I can't get by with it. Pretty sure the spokes would be in a bind, making the corner. Not gonna push my luck. Rather take the time & be sure to get it right.

SirJoey
05-08-2008, 07:47 PM
...Also, thanks for showing that this method works. I came up with it a long time ago, but I haven't actually made any flanges yet.

You're very welcome. Just don't charge me a royalty! :D

TheKid
05-08-2008, 08:08 PM
In that case, 2 1/2" 11ga. steel tube would be the better choice over the 14ga. If you find a scrap dealer, there may be even better choices. A 2' long piece of square tube will yield 32 flanges. Personally, I'm on the lookout for 3 1/2" -4" wide whatever-I-can-find that's about the thickness of a hub flange. I need 2 7/8" wide flanges for the rims and spokes I have on hand. I'm in no hurry, so until I am, I won't even think about buying anything.

TheKid
09-20-2008, 07:37 PM
The square tube didn't work, because there's a bow in the sides. It's slight, but it's noticeable and may still bend if you flatten it out.