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John Lewis
10-23-2008, 10:57 PM
With the Financial problems dogging the economy and the Aus dollar all prices here are set to rise So I decided to get in first and pick up a new welder.

The old cheapie is just plain trouble and needs constant adjustment of current. One moment too cold , the next it burns holes.

So I went out and came home with a nice little CIG Weldskill 130 amp inverter welder. Adjustable 5 to 130 amps. 20% duty cycle at 130 Amps. Nice and light 5.5kg. It has lift TIG switch so if I buy the extra cable and gas bottle I can have TIG.

I gave it a try out and what a difference. My welds are immediately 100% better than before. I'm glad I spent the money. Got a good discount too.

John Lewis

macka
10-26-2008, 11:12 PM
awesome, its always fun getting new goodies and gadgets.

greenevegiebeast
10-26-2008, 11:32 PM
Niiiice john Iweld with a flux core wire feed, the only difrence that I know of is wit tig you wont have as much clean up grinding. :D

Odd Man Out
10-27-2008, 12:23 AM
It has lift TIG switch so if I buy the extra cable and gas bottle I can have TIG.

I gave it a try out and what a difference. My welds are immediately 100% better than before. I'm glad I spent the money. Got a good discount too.

John Lewis

Welcome to the joys of TIGland John, once you enter you will not want to leave
:D

John Lewis
10-27-2008, 08:30 AM
Welcome to the joys of TIGland John, once you enter you will not want to leave
:D

Yes I've played with a mates TIG some years back. Succeeded in contaminating the tip but didn't have enough time to practice further.

I'm not sure what is meant by "lift" TIG. I'm assuming it has to do with how the arc is struck. Normal tig has a high voltage starter and I I'm guessing that lift TIG means you strike the arc somewhat like a normal arc welder.

Any body able to explain ?

John Lewis

cyclesaver
10-27-2008, 09:10 AM
I have not heard the term "lift" before either, John, But that sounds like a good guess to me. I run a tig torch just hooked to the electrode holder of my Lincon buzz box, its an AC-DC box and it does a nice job. At times I wish I had a foot pedal, but you only need it for the most accurate welding. You learn to get by with out it. It does a nice job for the money invested. I got the torch from Harbor Freight Tools and used it a lot doing body work on cars. I reciently bought a Mig welder. I use it a lot now, just becaue its faster. But with Tig, you can lay beads that are just too pretty to cover up.

Odd Man Out
10-27-2008, 09:56 AM
I'm not sure what is meant by "lift" TIG. I'm assuming it has to do with how the arc is struck. Normal tig has a high voltage starter and I I'm guessing that lift TIG means you strike the arc somewhat like a normal arc welder.

Any body able to explain ?

John Lewis
I am sure that my explanation will not be as "rocket science accurate" as needed for some (and let the lurkers know that they are not hidden...) but yes, as you slowly lift the point of the electrode off the surface of the material, an arc should initiate automatically if the magic dials are set for the correct settings. Something that I would urge all to get from the Miller welding website is the set of slide rule style welding calculators they have for sale. The full set of three costs a whopping $4 USD and has made my welding life much simpler.
Forgot to ask -- did your welder come with a foot pedal?

macka
10-27-2008, 10:36 AM
The other good little reference tool comes from the welders handbook, its a chart of heat colours for metals when you are welding.

xPosTech
10-27-2008, 08:49 PM
Doesn't the "lift" descriptor have to do with the timer that decreases current and leaves gas on at the end of the bead? I.E. current fades out while gas stays on for a lil' bit when you release the trigger. You should have gas flowing til the bead cools somewhat.

Ted

John Lewis
10-27-2008, 08:54 PM
I
Forgot to ask -- did your welder come with a foot pedal?

No foot pedal just a potentiometer dial. I could fix that no trouble. I built a foot pedal for my mates Tig way back when. Still in use today at the wine tank factory.

I still have to buy the TIG cables etc before I can do TIG. For now it's arc only.

John Lewis

macka
10-27-2008, 10:34 PM
Doesn't the "lift" descriptor have to do with the timer that decreases current and leaves gas on at the end of the bead? I.E. current fades out while gas stays on for a lil' bit when you release the trigger. You should have gas flowing til the bead cools somewhat.

Ted

Yes, according to my welding text, that is what it is.

John Lewis
11-07-2008, 08:49 AM
Went back to the welding supplies place today for some rods. While there I asked what was meant by lift TIG.

The answer I got was. Its the same as "Scratch start". He then explained how you put the tip on the work,scratch and lift to start the arc.

This is needed because there is no high frequecy to start the arc.

He also explained some of the problems involved and finished by saying that If I really wanted to get into TIG I'd be better with a HF machine.

So mystery of liftTIG solved.

John Lewis

savarin
11-07-2008, 09:14 PM
By the way John, there is a new law in Australia regarding home welders.
It states that "Whom soever purchases, trades or acquires by any other method an HF TIG welder must also supply an AC/DC TIG welder to a gentleman (loosely described) living in Townsville".:D

John Lewis
11-07-2008, 11:43 PM
By the way John, there is a new law in Australia regarding home welders.
It states that "Whom soever purchases, trades or acquires by any other method an HF TIG welder must also supply an AC/DC TIG welder to a gentleman (loosely described) living in Townsville".:D

Well If that's the law then that's the law. When I win Lotto and get the HF TIG then I'll remember the gent in Townsville.:p

John Lewis