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SirJoey
08-21-2008, 04:53 PM
Can't do any more welding for awhile. This stupid welder is acting up again. It's doing the same thing as before, hissing & melting the wire, instead of welding. It's already messed me up on a couple of welds, cuz when it happens, the welds come out all lumpy & boogery lookin, just horrible, like one of my first ones, & I get that big, glowing, melting ball on the end of the wire.

Like before, it's an intermittent problem, & it drives me nutz when it happens! It's been a recurring problem ever since I've owned this thing.

Called National Welders to see if they do service on 'em, & he said yes. He said it's most likely a wire feed problem, but I'll most likely have to take it in, so I may be stalled for awhile, waiting for the next unavoidable trip to town... :(

The last time it was acting up, I tried everything I could think of, & even things that were suggested here, but nothing helped, then it sorta fixed itself again, & I've had pretty good luck with it for awhile now, with only occassional, short-lived relapses, till now. This time, it won't "straighten out", so I've had it. I'm tired of having this thing mess up my already marginal-looking welds, so I'm taking it to a professional! It may cost me, but at least maybe the thing will finally be right!

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

AtomicZombie
08-21-2008, 04:57 PM
The more moving parts, the more hassle.

AC Stick all the way!

At least with stick, bad welds are your own damn fault - not some crazy machine.

Brad

kwetz
08-21-2008, 09:41 PM
I do not use a Mig but I seem to remember the folks who used them at the power plant had one they used Lock Graphite on. It was a small one they kept around for sheet metal patching. Not sure of it's conductive or if using it on the moving parts would be a problem if it was conductive but maybe teflon lube could do the same thing ?

AZ I'm still mostly O/A but I do use stick when I need to keep the haz down. But the welder who looked at something I stick welded says he can tell I'm a gasman ;)

Richie Rich
08-22-2008, 12:34 AM
Joey....Could it be due to 'brownouts' in your area? It happens sometimes around here during long hot spells when a LOT of electricity is being used. Check your line voltage with a meter and see if it might be lower than normal.

Just a thought....

.....Richie.....

savarin
08-22-2008, 02:27 AM
SJ, Maybe you've 'been there', maybe not. Just to be sure, have you made absolutely sure the tip is NEW and the correct size for the wire - the tip is stamped with the wire size it's made for. It's critical as any sloppyness between the tip and the wire will cause excessive arching between the two - they MUST match and both must be clean. And 2.) Try welding with the NO bends in the hose. Mine gets fussy whenever I bend the torch cable in too tight a radius - this adds friction and causes sporadic feed behavior - especially true if the lining is worn or dirty.

and if there is a touch of rust on the wire. Very humid where I live and this is always a problem.
I also had a problem with gas feed and had to seal the back of the torch with tape and that solved a heap of problems.

Doc Hollywood
08-22-2008, 09:19 AM
Does the problem exist after you weld for awhile? Could you be exceeding the duty cycle of the machine? I know my 110 volt machine would do that that is why I bought a Hobart handler 187 220 volt machine.

Also poor fitting of the materials or improper metal prep could be a cause.

savarin
08-22-2008, 09:48 PM
Most MIG wire is copper coated for just that reason. If your welder sits, unused for long periods of time, then I suggest putting the spool of wire in a appropriate sized baggie (no need to unthread it, just lift it off the spindle enough to slip into a baggie.)

Usually thats what I do but you know how it is:rolleyes: I'm certain I will be using it again tomorrow.

On another note cheap machines with short duty cycles can often be vastly improved by fitting a humongous fan for cooling in place of the tiny weak proprietary one.

greenevegiebeast
08-23-2008, 12:18 AM
some thing we ran acros with my wirefeed cheepo welder was the hold down wing nut for the spool was to tight(ge I wonder who did that). This caused the drive to slip. I am considering getting a cheepstick machine.
That is what I lerned on 20 years ago.:D

macka
08-27-2008, 06:52 PM
Usually thats what I do but you know how it is:rolleyes: I'm certain I will be using it again tomorrow.

On another note cheap machines with short duty cycles can often be vastly improved by fitting a humongous fan for cooling in place of the tiny weak proprietary one.

Good idea, I'm going to check out my flux core machine to see if I can do this. I'm using a small 110V stick machine for most welds, due to the versatility of a light stick machine on thinner tubing. I also picked it up on sale for under 120 bucks which was bonus.

SirJoey
08-29-2008, 04:12 PM
Well, I'm $51 poorer, but I got 'er fixed, & I'm ready to climb back in the saddle again. Unfortunately, it won't be tomorrow, due to out-of-town relatives coming for a visit, & then comes Sunday, so it may still be a few more days before I can resume work. :(

Anyway, the verdict: rust. I couldn't see it on the individual strand of wire, but after removing the spool, then accidentally dropping it & breaking a huge chunk out of the side of it :eek:, spots of rust could clearly be seen all over the side of the rolled wire.

The guy at National Welders sold me a new roll, moved me down from .035, to .024 wire, put on a matching tip, & gave 'er the once over, along with a few pointers for me. He was great, & only charged me for the wire & tip. :)

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

macka
09-01-2008, 05:57 PM
So how did moving to a smaller wire help? Also are you using gas or a flux core? What model of welder? A tip I was given but forgot about til now was spool in your wire if you aren't going to use it for a long and tie the tip of the wire around a small dowel and tape that dowel tight to the spool so it doesn't unravel and bag it with a couple small desicant packs. Then store the bag in a dry warm place. When you need to use the wire again, undo the tape, keeping the dowel tight, place it in the spool holder, and using a pair of pliers hold the wire and cut a fresh tip ahead of the pliers and feed the wire into your machine. You can also buy a wire wiper from Daytona Mig, which helps reduce the amount of schmutz on the wire as its being fed.

SirJoey
09-02-2008, 07:45 AM
So how did moving to a smaller wire help? Also are you using gas or a flux core? What model of welder? A tip I was given but forgot about til now was spool in your wire if you aren't going to use it for a long and tie the tip of the wire around a small dowel and tape that dowel tight to the spool so it doesn't unravel and bag it with a couple small desicant packs. Then store the bag in a dry warm place. When you need to use the wire again, undo the tape, keeping the dowel tight, place it in the spool holder, and using a pair of pliers hold the wire and cut a fresh tip ahead of the pliers and feed the wire into your machine. You can also buy a wire wiper from Daytona Mig, which helps reduce the amount of schmutz on the wire as its being fed.

Well, believe it or not, I still haven't gotten a chance to use it, so I'm not sure about the smaller wire, although it seemed to work fine when I briefly tried it out, while I was still there at National.

Hobart 135, gas.

Yeah, I'm already aware of the need to keep the wire in a bag, thanx to everyone's good advice here, so this Winter, I'll bag it & bring it in the house. Last Winter, I ignorantly left it out there, so that's prolly what finished it off. Right now, it's still in the welder, where it's been ever since bringing it home, but at least I've got a temporary bag wrapped around the roll, inside the welder. Better than nothing, I guess.

I didn't expect it to be this long before I'd get a chance to use it again, otherwise, I'd have brought my wire inside already, cuz we've FINALLY had some much needed rain, but unfortunately, the humidity has skyrocketed! :(

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

macka
09-02-2008, 08:00 PM
hobarts are good machines, .024 should be OK for the lighter stuff, but when making brackets, I like the penetration of .035 or .030. So when are you going to learn to arc weld ?:p it'll save you a lot of grief, especially since 6011 rod is so versatile.

SirJoey
09-02-2008, 09:10 PM
So when are you going to learn to arc weld ?

Arc weld? Forget that! That's for REAL men, LOL!

Seriously, I can barely even weld with THIS thing, due in large part to the fact that I'm so shakey,
I ALWAYS have to hold the gun with both hands! There's absolutely no way I'd ever be able to weld with a stick.

Not to mention the fact that my budget can't handle buying another welder!

I guess I can make do with my little buzz-box for the few remaining projects I still have planned...

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

macka
09-04-2008, 02:38 PM
Arc weld? Forget that! That's for REAL men, LOL!

Seriously, I can barely even weld with THIS thing, due in large part to the fact that I'm so shakey,
I ALWAYS have to hold the gun with both hands! There's absolutely no way I'd ever be able to weld with a stick.

Not to mention the fact that my budget can't handle buying another welder!

I guess I can make do with my little buzz-box for the few remaining projects I still have planned...

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

Do you rest your forearms on a table? I almost always weld supported, and I almost always use 2 hands for better control. You can weld a whole lot better if you are comfortable and supported. Seeing you have gas, a little trick I've seen guys do is use a flux wire and gas, and it makes the prettiest welds. It was on a display pedestal and after it was painted the weld looked like it was cast in the base and under the plinth. Just remember to practice as often as you can.

SirJoey
09-04-2008, 05:22 PM
Yep, more welder-based delays, but this time it's not the fault of the welder itself.
Now that I've smashed my regulator, I don't know how long it'll be before I can spare a few more bux for a new one.

National Welders said it'll be about 30 bux, which I don't have yet.
To make matters worse, they'll have to order it, & it'll take about a week to get it in!

Yeah, I'm gonna finish the Kroozer by the first day of Fall, alright.
Fall of 2009, that is... :(

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

SirJoey
09-04-2008, 05:24 PM
....I've been a lot more conscious about expenses - this 'hobby', just ain't cheap anymore.

Ain't THAT the truth? :rolleyes:

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macka
09-04-2008, 05:27 PM
HAve you tried Daytona Mig?

SirJoey
09-04-2008, 05:39 PM
HAve you tried Daytona Mig?

No, but honestly, I'd rather deal with these guys, cuz they're local,
& they're really great guys, even if it ends up costing me a little more.

Like when I took the welder in for service, he only charged me for the wire & tip,
even though he went over the whole thing thoroughly, gave me some pointers on the welder AND my welding,
& let me do a few practice beads with it before I left the store. Altogether, he prolly spent close to an hour on it with me, NC!

I even bought my O/A rig from them last year.

Additionally, if I have a problem, it's easier than dealing with someone over the phone / through the mail, etc.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

SirJoey
09-04-2008, 05:44 PM
IIRC, your reg has analog (round dial type) gauges, right? Is it just the one of the gauges or is it the reg itself?

Remember, in a pinch, you can pop-in a 2 pound roll of flux core to get you by.


Papa, the scoop:
http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php?p=9977#post9977

Good thought Papa, but I can't afford a roll of flux core either, right now.
Heck, just the gas for a trip to town will smoke $10, easy!

I'm just gonna have to wait. Some MORE.... :(

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